Kenya Safari Recce - July 2008

I have taken the overnight flight to Nairobi numerous times, mostly skipping Kenya and heading for other East African destinations famed for their primates such as gorilla tracking safaris in Rwanda. This time, after a long over due absence, Nairobi was my point of arrival for a recce safari of some of Kenya’s classic national parks and wildlife areas.

I arrived early in the morning on the 17th July and as soon as I had landed I wished I had pre-arranged my visa when I saw the queue for the immigration desk to get a visa. Nevertheless, after a short hold up and handing over $50 I was through and off to meet my pick-up for a short transfer to Wilson airport.

Wilson airport is the main base for Kenya’s domestic scheduled and charter flights and from here my adventure was to really start, as I caught a Twin Otter flight to Meru National Park.

Meru National Park is one of Kenya’s classic national parks and was opened in 1968. It covers some 870 sq km of what has been described as “remote and rugged wilderness”. It is famed for its connection to George and Joy Adamson along with Elsa the Lioness, star of their biographical book and film “Born Free”. It is an untamed park that is definitely on-the-up after a heavy bout of poaching in the 70’s and 80’s.

After touching down at the Meru airstrip I was meet by my hosts for the next couple of nights, the Offbeat Meru crew. However, before heading to the Offbeat’s camp I took a quick diversion to see another lodge in the area, Elsa’s Kopje. Named after Elsa the lioness, the camp has a wonderful position on Mughwango Hill over looking the plains and bush below, as well as the site of George Adamson’s original campsite. Pictures in camp remind you that on the very same rocks you wander around Elsa played and surveyed her world.

After enjoying a spot of lunch I was given a tour of this delightful lodge. My highlight was a scramble up the kopje rocks that tower above the lodge and when I got to the top – what a view. Seeing Meru stretch out before my eyes was a fabulous sight that was an inspiration to explore this remarkable park.

On our way to camp that afternoon I got a real flavour of what Meru has to offer. It’s a strikingly scenic park with a diverse range of habitats that’s home to a wide variety of Kenyan wildlife; there is plenty just waiting to be seen but you have to work for your rewards. On the way I saw elephant, grants gazelle, reticulated giraffe and the rare Grevy’s Zebra. As we crossed one of the 13 rivers, which are the life force of the park, we spotted 3 lions cubs resting up under an acacia bush. Whilst they lolled about and idly played I wondered where their mum was. It wasn’t until I caught a movement in some long grass that I realised she was keeping cover near by, wanting to avoid our preying eyes.

After a great drive I rolled into the Offbeat Meru Camp, a lovely tented camp that is set above the pretty Bisanandi River; a murmuring stream lined with palms and shaded by large acacia tortilis trees. It even boasts its own swimming pool which I took full advantage for a refreshing dip.

The next day was devoted to exploring Meru National Park and it soon delivered some firsts for me; twiga swala the giraffe antelope, more commonly known as gerenuk and the very elegant beisa oryx. My highlight for the day was spotting a couple of Meru’s ‘bush’ lions, quite unlike the ruffed mane lions of the Mara. These are lean, scarred and scrub hardened loins. Males seem to sport Mohican tufts rather than ample manes of the Mara lions. Like a lot of the predators in the park they tried to keep a low profile in the long grass (as result of past poaching) but as they were only metres from the road they were a magnificent sight.

Sitting by the camp fire that night with a beer in hand chatting to the amiable Arian Allen, the camps manager I realised that this untamed park had already made an impression on me. My short stay here was a great introduction of one of Kenya’s forgotten classic parks.

After my two nights in Meru National Park I took a flight across to the Lewa Downs. My flight was incredibly scenic as I flew across the Nyambeni Hills to land on a small airstrip barely noticeable until the last minute tucked in amongst the great bowl of rolling grassland plains, ridges and hills of acacia of this beautiful private wildlife conservancy.

The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy was originally a cattle ranch run by the Craig family. In 1983, part of it was sectioned off to create the Ngare Sergoi Rhino Sanctuary, started by Ann Merz. This set the seed for a compete transformation from working cattle ranch to one of East Africa’s leading private wildlife conservancy areas which was established as the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in 1995. It is now a model for wildlife and community development which has also extended in to the Massai community lands surrounding the conservancy and farther a field. Encompassing the whole of Lewa Downs as well as the government-owned Ngare Ndare Forest Reserve the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy has created a 61,000 acre sanctuary for lion, leopard, cheetah, buffalo, elephant, black and white rhino, Grevy’s and Common Zebra, reticulated giraffe, hippo, eland, waterbuck, vervet monkeys, olive baboons, impala, grants gazelle and much more besides …

As a result of it’s vigorous anti-poaching team (almost 200 in all) wildlife populations are on the up and such is the success that many species have been translocated to other parks to boast populations and genetic diversity. As I was to soon find out it is a fantastic wildlife area to visit.

After landing safely I took a leisurely game drive with my guide, Silas, who was very enthusiastic about all the wonders of Lewa, especially its varied bird life which he was able to call out upon demand with his strange whistles and screeches! After seeing plenty of birds and Grevy’s zebra we gradually headed towards my home for the night the fabulous Lewa Wilderness Lodge. This delightful luxury lodge and its guest cottages are part of the original family home of the Craig’s and it’s still home to Will and Emma Craig who are the congenial hosts along with their team of professional guides. As we drove up to the lodge I caught sight of Will’s latest toy, his classic yellow bi-plane. If you are feeling brave he’s happy to take guests for a fly by tour of the ranch and a peek at Mount Kenya! I skipped on this chance as I had an exciting flight over anyway!

There is a healthy lion population in Lewa who can be quite reclusive but if you put in the time there is a good chance of seeing the ’king of the cats’. Leopards are present but are quite elusive possibly due to their very fraught relationship with the Lewa’s resident lions. However, because it is a private reserve you are able to go on night drives increasing your chance of seeing the cats. So this is exactly what I did in the evening and I was duly rewarded with a great sighting of two females heading out for a night in the swamp hunting. It’s a magical feeling to see cats at dusk by spot light. The light doesn’t seem to trouble them at all and they happily go about their business, which is far more active than their normal daily routine of sleeping and generally lolling about.

I returned to the lodge a happy man and then proceeded to enjoy delicious home cooked curry for dinner. The fire side chat later that evening soon turned to Lewa’s most famous residents, the 3 Brothers. These 3 male cheetahs can be found in the conservancy and they are renowned for hunting of ostrich, which is a unique but a very rare sight. Simon King (Big Cat Diaries) has been busy filming for a new TV series, so keep watching out for this. They have also been known to take down almost fully grown Grevy’s Zebra (the much larger and heavier cousin of the common zebra). After all this talk I was determined to see if I could find them the next day.

Up and out early is the best way to enjoy the wonders of the African plains. As dawn was breaking I headed out with Silas to see if we could find the 3 Brothers. Now, the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is one of the few areas in Kenya which boasts the Big 5. It’s home to both white and black rhino, lion, leopard, elephant and buffalo. In fact 10% of Kenya’s black rhinos live and thrive on Lewa, it has about 20% of the world’s population of Grevy’s zebra and it’s home to 70 mammal species and over 350 species of birds, so there is plenty to see. Nevertheless my mind was set on seeing the 3 Brothers so I barely noticed the two black rhino we came across, the herds of eland and a host of other wildlife as we scoured the plains for the 3 Cheetah Brothers. When I had almost given up all hope of seeing them, just as we were heading back to the lodge, who should appear beside the road – the elusive 3 Brothers. It was a fantastic sighting as they had full bellies after gorging on a recent kill and we followed them until they took to a cosy hiding spot were they could rest undisturbed. It was a magical may to end my brief stay in Lewa.

After gathering my bags I headed overland for the Borana Ranch, stopping for a quick visit to the Lewa Safari Camp on my way. This is another option for a stay on the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. The camp is set amongst the rolling plains of the conservancy with a dramatic backdrop of the snow-covered massif of Mt Kenya, it’s a great tented camp to explore this remarkable area from. My journey up to the Borana Ranch was a dramatic one as our Landrover clambered up a rough track to the more rugged, rockier and higher (6,500 feet above sea level) plateau area where the Borana Ranch Lodge is perched. If you drive this way you will get to see a spectacular sight, an enormous rocky outcrop that over looks the plain below and is said to be the inspiration for the lion rock featured in the Disney’s film the Lion King.

Borana is another fabulous lodge that has a rustic luxurious charm with bags of ranch character. The lodge seems to have grown organically from the rocks on which it was built and the furniture is made from old posts and wood found on the ranch. Perched high on a rugged scrub bush Samangua Valley it has panoramic views of Mount Kenya, across the Lewa Plains to the Ngare Ndare Forest, as well as overlooking a waterhole that is frequently visited by a host of wildlife.

That afternoon I set out with the lodge manager Amory Macleod for a guided tour of the ranch. Borana is a haven for a wide diversity of wildlife but it isn’t as easily accessible as Lewa, due to the terrain and less open habitats. Its 32,000 acres encompasses rolling grassland in the western part dominated by Whistling Thorn, as well as mixed bushland, green riverine vegetation along its rivers and hillsides of olive and pencil cedar. This is a working cattle ranch but again wildlife conservation is very much part of the ranches ethos and as such boasts an increasing wildlife population. Lion and leopard can be seen, along with elephant and reticulated giraffes at a number of waterholes. There’s also a good variety of the northern antelope species including the Jackson’s hartebeest, which is more common in Uganda but can also be found on the Laikipia Plateau. My highlight, whilst on the ranch, was a sighting of a rare and more elusive primate. The ranch is a haven for the delightful Patas Monkey and is one of the best places to see them in East Africa.

The next day I was off to another private ranch and wildlife reserve on the Laikipia Plateau but on the morning of my departure I had a rather painful encounter with a scorpion. Whilst pulling on my trousers I felt a burning sting on my leg and to my shock a scorpion dropped out of my trouser leg. I rushed over to the main lodge where Amory advised a hot water bottle was the best way to relieve the increasingly painful burning sensation. As a result of this school boy error (I left my trousers hanging near a pile of drying wood) I had to endure a scalding hot water bottle on my leg as I headed to catch my flight from Lewa to Loisaba.

Loisaba Lodge is situated in the heart of the private Loisaba game ranch, which spans the border of the Laikipia Plateau and Kenya’s rugged northern frontier district. This is a working ranch but the farm management along with the local Laikiiak Masai and Samburu communities work together to preserve the environment and wildlife that abounds here. The lodge itself has a stunning position, perched on the edge of an escarpment looking out towards Mount Kenya and overlooking a waterhole and the scrub plains below.

Loisaba Lodge is a remarkable ‘ranch lodge’ that offers a diverse range of activities and I spent a couple of day exploring this property of untamed bush and rugged beauty. Loisaba is made for adventure and relaxation as it offers day and night game drives, bush breakfasts, sundowners, helicopter safaris, balloon safaris, horse riding, guided walking safaris, camel trekking, mountain biking, river rafting (seasonal), visits to local tribal ‘enk’angs’ (villages), fishing, bird watching, tennis, swimming, bocce ball, croquet and pampering health spa treatments.

But it’s not all about adventure activities as there are over 50 mammal species to be found on the Ranch, with good numbers of both Grevy’s and Common zebra, Besia Oryx, buffalo, elephant and Greater Kudu. I had a fantastic sighting of a couple of male Greater Kudu and could only marvel at their magnificent double spiralled horns. Like the rest of Laikipia cat numbers are on the increase and there is a healthy lion population which have been collared as part of the Laikipia Predator Project. Sometimes they can be tricky to track down but heading out with a radio tracker is an option on the ranch. Early morning balloon safaris are also an option, offering a totally different perspective on the wildlife below. It has been known to see both leopard and hunting dog as you silently drift by.

Combining Loisaba Lodge with a stay at their community run ‘Star Bed’ Camps offers a unique bush experience. Their ‘Star Beds’ are a completely different safari experience where you can sleep out underneath the stars in rustic comfort on a uniquely designed ‘Mukokoteni’ – a bed on wheels. Looked after by a team of traditional Samburu and Laikipiak Masai warriors a stay here is a truly memorable experience.

After a cracking couple of days on Loisaba I next headed overland to the nearby ranch of Sosian.
Upon my arrival I was whisked off to a late bush breakfast near to the delightful waterfalls of the Euaso Narok River, which offers an alternative swimming experience! That afternoon I settled into my delightful cottage, part of the old Ranch House which has been lovingly restored. It takes you back in time to the simple grandeur of a 1940’s ranch home with a spacious dining room, billiards & game rooms and an elegantly furnishing sitting room with a large fire place. After a couple of hours to relax I went out on a late afternoon drive with the lodge manager, Steve Carey, with the aim of heading to a camera trap to see if it had captured an image of one of the many leopards on the property. No luck but as an alternative distraction we picked an antenna to track down a pack of wild dog which have been fitted with radio collars as part of an ongoing research project. Sadly they eluded us as, although we could pick up their signal, they were tucked away in an inaccessible valley.
The next morning I went out for a wonderful horse ride on the ranch. It’s a great feeling to be atop a horse and get right in amongst the action of grazing zebra, Oryx and impala. Just be wary of elephants as they aren’t the best of friends with our trusty steeds! After a great morning on horseback I then went out on an exploratory walking safari with both Steve and Annabelle (my gracious hosts). Steve wanted to check-out a secluded valley as a possible route for future fly-camping, so we headed into the bush with gun in hand (thankfully in Steve’s safe hands). A walking safari is great experience as you get a totally different perspective on what’s around you. You might not see bags of wildlife but seeing tracks, the small wonders all around and the occasional close encounter with zebra, impala, oryx and alike is thrilling indeed. We had to make a large detour round a gulley to avoid a feeding herd of elephants. Peering down through the bushes to see them just below us, trunks raised trying to catch our scent, was a magical safari moment.

After a couple of fantastic days on the ranch, my time at Sosian was up. During my stay at Lewa, Loisaba and Sosian I gained a new found enthusiasm for Kenya and these private conservancies and ranches of Laikipia Plateau. The ranches are pioneering community conservation and wildlife management and for those that visit they are great wildlife destinations in their own right. They are suitable not only for the adventurous safari goers but for families, couples and anybody who wants a unique safari experience.

The last leg of my Kenyan safari odyssey was to the magical Masai Mara but before catching a flight to the Mara I spent a night at Porini’s Rhino Camp, located in the 90,000 acre Ol Pejeta Conservancy near Mt Kenya. My stay here was dominated by a night of torrential rain but despite this I was able to enjoy a game drive through one of East Africa’s largest Black Rhino sanctuaries where all the Big 5 can be found. To be honest I didn’t see much past the rain but I was assured by the very hospitable Porini camp crew that there is plenty to see and it was a very attractive park. After my brief stop I caught a flight from Nanyuki direct to the Masai Mara.

The Masai Mara is a far larger eco-system than just the Masai Mara National Reserve itself. It also encompasses the Mara Triangle which is managed by the Masai Conservancy and extends into the Greater Mara area which is home to the traditional Maasai community lands. Mara means dappled in the in the Maa language, which aptly describes this amazing area of rolling savannah hills bisected by dark green riverine forest areas.

The Serengeti-Mara ecosystem supports the most diverse migration of grazing mammals in the world and the Masai Mara is crucial in sustaining this mass migration of wildebeest, zebra and gazelles. Its rich grasslands are able to support these vast herds of migrating animals from Tanzania during critical points in the dry season. Their arrival and spells a bonanza for the Mara’s big cats and it is one wonder that BBC film crews have based themselves here for several years filming their Big Cat Diaries.

My landing in the Mara was quite an event, as we had to fly past the airstrip to clear a passing heard of elephants and when I was finally on the ground I noticed a female lion at the furthest end of the runway just watching us unload!

After hurriedly picking up my bags I was whisked off for a game drive as we head to my camp for the next three nights, Offbeat’s Mara Camp. This is a secluded tented camp situated along the Olare Orok river, on Koyiaki Group Ranch just north of the Masai Mara Game Reserve. This unspoilt part of Masailand is an area full of wildlife but is suitably far enough away from any other lodge. Its situation in the heart of the greater Mara area gives it good access to this diverse area where the migrating herds and resident game are free to roam. The Offbeat Mara camp also works closely with the local Masaai community employing many local Masaai guides and camp crew, as well as contributing to community funds.

Over the next three days in the Mara I had a busy schedule of visiting a host of fantastic camps and lodges in the Mara; including Rekero, Governors Camps, Kicheche, Elephant Pepper, Porini Lion Camp, Kichwa Tembo, Richard’s Camp, Serian, Intrepids and a clutch of others. All vary slight in what they offer in terms of their accommodation and the safari experience you can have but they are all dedicated to showing you the best of what the Mara has to offer. It is just a matter of picking a camp or lodge that best suites your taste and budget.

My time in the Masai Mara wasn’t just dashing from one camp to another and I managed to squeeze in some fantastic game viewing. Of course I had to see the famed Marsh Pride of the Musiara Swamp near the Governors Camps lined along the Mara River. They are worthy of all the attention, as during a couple visits I was spell bound by the playful cubs and an occasion when there was a highly amusing standoff between the lionesses and a belligerent bull buffalo.

Although the vast herds of wildebeest were starting to pour into the Mara I didn’t actually get to see one of their famed crossings of the Mara River. Nevertheless seeing the plains covered in a multitude of black dots which on closer inspection through binoculars materialized as the grazing and trampling hordes of wildebeest was an amazing sight. One afternoon whilst idly watching the Marsh pride, from a distance, a thundering column of wildebeest, spooked by them, headed towards us veering away only at the last minute. The dust, smell, sound of their grunts and pounding hooves was an incredible experience. Another memorable highlight was seeing a young leopard cub on it’s own near Kicheche camp. It was in the late afternoon just as dusk was falling and it came out of cover to make a rather feeble stalking attempt at some passing impala. The Impala were far too big for it but to see it walking through cover and watching the impala pass by was a real thrill. I later learnt that the cub was one of Bella’s, of Big Cat Diary fame. It’s just a shame I didn’t get to see her in action! There’s always a reason to return.

My time in Kenya was fantastic and it re-kindled my enthusiasm for this classic safari destination. Not only does it offer some of the oldest and best parks in East Africa but with a host of private wildlife conservancies Kenya does offer unparalleled diversity; it can boast a diverse array of habitats, wildlife, accommodation and activities. It is a great destination not only first time safari goers but also season wildlife enthusiasts and there’s plenty to go back for again and again …

For more detailed information on Kenya Safaris please click on the relevant links listed below:

Kenya Safari Holidays - an overview of Kenya as a safari destination
Kenya Wildlife Safaris - detailed information on the wildlife that you are likely to discover on your Kenya safari
Kenya Lodges - a breakdown of individual lodge descriptions in Kenya
Kenya Safari - further information on the main attractions that you can expect to encounter on your Kenya Safari
Safaris to Kenya - a selection of Kenya safaris; these safaris can be tailor made to suit your specific requirements