Botswana Wildlife Safaris and Vacations - June 2008 Recce

BOTSWANA SAFARI, JUNE 2008

Botswana is a fantastic safari destination with boutique lodges and camps and some of the best wildlife viewing on the African continent.

20th June:

1215hrs – arrive from the Kasane border post from Zambia into Chobe Game Lodge.

1300hrs – lunch on the terrace overlooking the Chobe River.

1500hrs – game drive. The densities of elephant and giraffe herds in the afternoon is immense with herds of elephants of up to 50 and they are meant to get bigger as the season gets drier! A beautiful game drive along the river with the usual sightings and then just as we are starting to make our way back to the lodge we find a leopard resting in a tree!! We spend a fantastic 20mins with her as she rests and then stalks a guinea fowl up in the branches…a real highlight and a very special moment. I am beginning to understand why Botswana is so renowned for wildlife safaris and I haven’t even reached the delta yet. We return to the lodge at around 1845hrs.

1830hrs – dinner at the restaurant. The food is ok, perfectly acceptable but not amazing.

21st June:

0530hrs – wake up call.

0615hrs – depart on game drive. All the elephants have disappeared into the bush, you would not even know that they had been there…incredible how wildlife can trick you. We try and track the leopard but with no luck. Overall a very quiet morning.

0800hrs – return and have a delicious breakfast!


1000hrs – depart on site visits to Chobe Marina Lodge, Mowani Lodge and Chobe Chilwero

1230hrs – lunch on the terrace.

1400hrs – site inspection of Chobe Game Lodge.

1530hrs – go on boat trip down the Chobe River. Absolutely fantastic. A plethora of elephants along the river as they have returned from their bush excursion overnight. We even manage to watch a herd of 20 or so swimming from one island to the next and then onto the river bank – once again a real highlight although it does get fairly busy with other boats as I counted 10 others at one stage all jostling for position; this can't be helped but it is a shame and I think a very early morning boat trip would be nice as you would have the river to yourself…although there would not be as much wildlife around. Also saw plenty of crocs, fish eagles, hippos…the usual culprits and a lioness off in the distance.

1930hrs – dinner and bed

22nd June:

0530hrs – wake up call.

0620hrs – depart on morning game drive. Nothing seen this morning by us although another couple of vehicles managed to find some lions. There were a lot of hyena, lion and a few leopard tracks. A pleasant game drive though up onto the raised wooded hill just back from the riverside drives; perfect territory for leopards and this is also where the elephants and giraffes come to spend the night as it is slightly warmer and not so open.

0900hrs – breakfast.

1235 – depart 20mins by road to Kasane airport.

1335hrs – Mack Air flight across Chobe National Park and into the eastern edge of the Okavango Delta! A lovely flight; we stop off at Camp Okavango to drop two other passengers off (one who has been throwing up for the last hour behind me in the plane!). Flight from Camp Okavango takes approx 5mins. Total flight time from Chobe (Kasane) to Shinde is 1hr 15mins.

1530hrs – depart on first game drive in Okavango Delta…very exciting! Stunning wetland area with the usual suspects; we manage to find a pride of four lions of which two are mating…very quick but the first time I have ever seen this and it is a real highlight! A beautiful sundowner with the sun setting on the horizon and then a nightdrive back to Shinde Camp. On the way back we encounter 3 hyenas out on patrol scavenging for anything they can get their teeth into. All in all a fantastic introduction to the Delta.

23rd June:

0630hrs – wake up call.

0700hrs – breakfast of cereals and cooked breakfast.

0730hrs – makoro trip along the waterways. A beautiful trip that gives you a completely different perspective of the Delta. You are down at grassroots only inches off the waters surface; don’t expect to see much game but it is still a fantastic experience. Drifting along aimlessly as you listen to hippos, come across a variety of birdlife and on this trip we even see a bull elephant patrolling the waterline. A great experience and one that should not be missed out when visiting the delta.

1030hrs – return to camp and have a quick site inspection.

1120hrs – depart for the short flight (10mins) to Chief’s Camp. I have a Cessna to myself (4 seater just with the pilot); my favourite plane transfer yet as we glide over the Delta watching the wildlife lumbering away in slow motion below; elephants stick out as big grey blocks and giraffes lollop along to distant waterholes. A really fantastic experience and another highlight!

1200hrs – a 10min transfer from the airstrip brings us to Chief’s Camp – this is the flagship of the Abercrombie and Kent properties and meant to be one of the best areas in the Delta for seeing the predators…we shall soon find out!

1530hrs – afternoon tea and then depart on a game drive. The guide Pondiso is excellent as he explains numerous things that I do not think even other guides know; at one stage he is out of the vehicle and gesturing madly as he imitates a rhino marking and using its midden…very funny! The red lechwe are a highlight in the area as they bound through the water meadows sending spray in every direction; along with the Roan that I saw in Kafue these are a beautiful antelope. Towards the end of the drive we are lucky enough to come across a pride of lions with cubs and sub adults (the males are not around). A fantastic 30mins as we watch them wake up with the cubs wrestling and jumping on their mothers and aunts and the more mature ones cleaning themselves before setting out on a hunt. The pride looks healthy and comprises of approximately 7 individuals cubs included.

1800hrs – return to camp as it is not permitted to do night drives in this area.

1930hrs – dinner. Food is of a high standard and served in the covered dining area on two large tables for the guests of the camp to be seated around.

24th June:

0600hrs – wake up call.

0630hrs – breakfast of a fry up and cereals, coffee, toast, etc.

0700hrs – set off on game drive. A number of other lodges have provided ponchos and blankets to keep you warm during the cold morning hours however Chief’s Camp also provides you with a hot water bottle which is a real treat! We have a great morning spotting various antelope, black back jackal, a honeybadger (!!!) and then after approximately 45mins of tracking we come across 3 hugely powerful male lions resting in the brush. These are called the Mombo Boys. These are some of the most beautiful lions that I have ever seen with huge black manes and in the prime of their life (approx 12 years old). The guide (Posino) was actually more excited to see them than we were as he let out an excited shout and then immediately told us to keep quiet even though we had not said anything! We spend a magical 45mins with these awesome specimens with noone else on the viewing at all. This is another highlight of the trip! Apparently these boys have only just returned to the area as the week before they had been kicked out by two young males from a different pride; these three however form an extremely powerful coalition and I think they were back for revenge…

1100hrs – return to camp after a thrilling end to time spent in the Chief’s Camp area.

1200hrs – a good chicken curry and salad lunch before catching my flight on to Stanley’s Camp.

1240hrs – depart on approx 30mins flight to Stanley’s Camp. Once again I am the only one on the first part of the trip and we skim our way across the delta at 50m watching the red lechwe and elephants in the waterways below…stunning.

1330hrs – arrive at Stanley’s airstrip (shared with Baines Camp) and then transfer 25mins to Stanley’s Camp.

1530hrs – tea and cakes

1600hrs – depart on game drive. A lovely area with good game drive routes taking in a number of the islands which provide excellent territories for leopards and luckily this is what we found! We spend approximately an hour with two mating leopards! This is amazing as their guttural growls thunder from the bushes, climaxing into aggressive outbreaks. Mating every 10 or so minutes for approximately 3 days this is a very lucky and once in a lifetime encounter. We initially find their tracks and then spot them climbing down from a tree a few metres off in the distance and then we track them through the bush as they mate and then move from one area of scrub to another. At one stage we have a beautiful sighting of the female as she poses in the sun on a fallen tree as the male, who is much more timid, hides in the thick undergrowth. After a while we decide to leave the courting couple alone and depart to the open plains for our sundowner full of excitement after an amazing encounter.
After sundowner we quickly return to the leopard sighting where a hyena has now arrived on the scene and therefore the female leopard is up on a branch in plain sight; perfect photo opportunity even though it is now dark. A real treat!
The day continues to get better as we make our way to a local termite mound only to find a pack of hyenas using it as their den and wondering aimlessly around are 5-10 two week old hyena cubs. We sit in awe as they stumble around, suckling from their mother and wondering in and out of the dark expanse of their den as the termite mound towers in the background. The perfect end to the perfect day and some of the best wildlife I have seen in Africa in one day to date.
As a result of being able to do night drives in this area it does help in regards to seeing game.

2000hrs – dinner with everyone on one table.

25th June:

0600hrs – I wake up as am used to getting up earlier and make my way to the central dining area for a hot chocolate.

0630hrs – bacon and eggs for breakfast whilst watching the quelea birds swarm into the long grasses in front of the camp in their thousands.

0820hrs – depart on 20min drive to do the “Walking with Elephants” experience. Doug and Sandi Groves run livingwithelephants.org which is a non profit organisation which looks after a trio of elephants. We spend the morning with them learning about the elephants in detail, touching them, walking with them and interacting with them. It is a great experience and ideal for first time African travellers however I actually found that it went on for too long and did involve some “party tricks” which are geared towards a specific clientele. The morning does end with a great lunch in the middle of the Bush as the elephants also have lunch in the trees around you; great photo opportunities and this would be a real highlight for some clients.

1200hrs – lunch in the Bush with the elephants. Please note that this activity does combine with other clients from Baines Camp.

1330hrs – return to camp. I sit down with Delmaine (local Botswanan that is filling in at the camp at the moment) and discuss the best areas to visit in Botswana for the cats...

1530hrs – tea.

1600hrs – depart on game drive. Another exciting afternoon as we manage to track down the two leopards that are mating again. They are much more cagey today however it is still a real thrill to listen to it and catch sight of them as they walk from bush to bush.

1900hrs – return to camp.

2000hrs – a lovely candlelit and storm lantern lit dinner out at the front of camp with a massive barbecue. A really atmospheric night as everyone is in high spirits and it is a great way to spend your last night as you dine out under the stars.

26th June:

0630hrs – wake up call.

0700hrs – drive approx 40mins from Stanley’s Camp to Baines Camp


1100hrs – lunch.

1140hrs – transfer 30mins to airstrip.

1220hrs – flight from Stanley’s airstrip to Xakanaka airstrip. Great views as we skim across the Delta watching the elephants lumbering away below us through the wetland waterways. Met upon arrival at the airstrip which is much busier than other airstrips so you must remember that this is a major access point for the Delta. 10min transfer to Xakanaka Camp.

1230hrs – check in and start work!

1500hrs – tea on the decking overlooking the delta.

1545hrs – depart on game drive into the park. Astoundingly the first thing we find, alerted by the alarm calls of the impala is a male leopard wandering through the shade of the trees along a riverbank…we are lucky enough to have him to ourselves for a few minutes before swarms of cars (approx 15) descend on him and try to follow him along the roadways; this completely destroys the sighting for me and is quite a let down. This is a huge difference between the reserve and the private concessions and should be explained to all visiting this area; the afternoon progresses however as we see a pride of lions leaving a recent kill and making their way towards the river for a drink. The highlight however is discovering a female leopard sitting out in the open in the shade (with only one other vehicle) and then following her across the grassy meadow, over a stream and watch in amazement as she surprises a francolin with chicks and pounces on one of the chicks as an evening apertiser; what a treat, she is glowing in the evening sunlight as she stalks away into the bushes in readiness for her main course.

1930hrs – dinner around a lovely long wooden table made of old railway sleepers.

2100hrs – sit round the campfire with Bob telling old bush stories; a really nice experience and one that clients should make the most of as they could learn a lot.

27th June:

0615hrs – wake up call.

0630hrs – a light breakfast of toast and cereals and a large mug of tea.

0700hrs – depart on game drive. Luckily we come across the male leopard again! This time he is snoozing up a tree waiting for some unsuspecting impala or francolin to come by. We sit with him for an hour or so as he patrols his branch looking out into the bushes…nothing arrives and we leave him in peace. We then move onto the lions again who are wandering along in the trail of the buffaloes that they successfully hunted the morning before….

1030hrs – return to camp.

1100hrs – a large brunch of fish, shepherd’s pie, bacon, eggs and juice.

1200hrs – boat trip (5 mins either side of Xakanaka Camp) to visit Camps Moremi and Okuti

1500hrs – tea.

1545hrs – depart on game drive. We see the male leopard again and watch him for a couple of hours as he attempts to make a kill from his branch; he watches intently as a group of impala approach but loses his chance when they catch a whiff of him on the wind. Amazing to watch nature in action and to notice that impala are not as stupid as one might expect!

1930hrs – dinner

28th June:

0700hrs – depart on game drive. It is the last morning and we have seen loads so none of us are expecting anything…until….we get a call on the radio and three leopards have been sighted on one kill! This is exceedingly rare and we race to see it. We get there as one large male leopard is guarding the impala kill as two other leopards, another male and also a female, circle him; it is tense as each individual tries to catch him off guard and take advantage of the situation; every time they approach however he spots them and as soon as he stands to fight they back off immediately. The hisses, snarls and guttural growls continue as each individual sits amongst the grass awaiting his or her turn.
From what we can work out, it is actually the female (who is prob the mother of the one of the males) who made the kill and then had it stolen by the larger male, hence the extreme amounts of tension throughout all of the three cats. As the female feigns indifference and wanders off, she circles back and comes between the second male and the sight of the kill; suddenly it all sparks off as he moves in to try and put her back in place, she snarls and hunkers down to assert her authority, it does not work however as he powers in and a high pitched whirling battle pursues for the briefest of moments…then all is calm again with the female duly put in place and demoted back to third in line….

1100hrs – an adrenalin pumped breakfast.

1245hrs – depart for airstrip.

1315hrs – direct flight to Maun (25mins). A nice small airport that is easy to navigate. Luggage is brought in and you find the check in desk for your onward flight on your left.

1500hrs – 1hr 20min flight to Jo’Burg with Air Botswana – you do need to be careful with this airline as they are often the ones that screw up the schedule and yet they are one of the only airline that connects SA with Botswana


1630hrs – arrive in Jo’Burg and have to wait for two hours at the transfer desk as they are having problems with their systems; very frustrating and hopefully this does not always happen. You then walk straight up to the departure lounge as your luggage has already been checked in from Maun. You do need to collect your boarding pass from the transfer desk though before going to the departure lounge.

2015hrs – depart with BA direct back to London Heathrow terminal 5.

Chobe National Park

Within minutes of entering the park you see herds of 40-50 elephants. The game density here at the correct time of year (June – October/November) is obviously very high and puts a number of other safari destinations to shame. Located on the Chobe River (the other side is the Caprivi Strip in Namibia which also has great game densities), this provides the ideal location for game viewing and is famous for its huge herds of elephants. The cats in this area are not so common although Simwanza Valley and Kaswabenga Valley (30km drive so a long way) are meant to be good for lion and leopard sightings and game is good here in October as game rests in the shade of the rocky hillsides and valleys. Saying this, I had a beautiful leopard sighting for 20mins on my first night! Lion are also present in the area and I manage to see one from the boat cruise as it wanders around the bushes on the river bank.

This is a fantastic destination with great open plains where you will find grazing herds of giraffe amongst 40+ herds of elephant, thickets and acacia trees that provide cover for leopards, lions and hyenas; cheetahs are not common here as a result of the presence of the larger predators. Riverfront trees and tracks are also ideal for leopard and this is where I manage to see one on my first game drive in the evening.

N.B. The main cat areas of the park are Savuti, Kwando and Linyanti which are over in the western sector; unfortunately it was not possible to visit these areas on this visit however these are a must for the future.

Okavango Delta

Shinde Concession: this is a private concession for Ker and Downey and this makes a huge difference. This influences what activities you can do and gives you the freedom to do nightdrives, boat trips, walking safaris, drive off the road (which you cannot do in the national park), makoro trips (dug out canoes along the waterways) and also game drives. This truly is a wetland area and as the season progresses (June – October) the Delta fills up with more and more water that is flowing down from the wet season in Angola six months ago. This sets things for phenomenal game viewing as the game sticks predominantly to the islands; the strange thing is that the predators swim here which they do not do in other wildlife destinations.

Different reports say different things as to what game is good in what areas of the delta so we have to be careful who we believe.

Moremi Reserve: Chief’s Island - a major part of this is Chief’s Island which only has two camps on it, Mombo’s (Wilderness Safaris) and Chief’s (A and K). This is meant to have the highest density of predators in the Delta. A stunning place to fly into as you cross the various waterways below that have been tramped through by herds of elephants and hippos. Based in the centre of the Delta this does give you easy access to surrounding camps in other areas. Very expensive however nowhere in Botswana is cheap. Once again this is a real privilege to visit this area.

On my visit which admittedly was only 1 night I would not say that I was overawed by the predators that we saw although saying that we did see lions on both occasions that we went out – one lovely pride with cubs playing and then the 3 Mambo Boys, very healthy adult males with striking black manes. It is a great area however it claims to guarantee sightings of predators and this is a dangerous thing to do. I think ideally people should spend a minimum of two nights here in order to maximise viewing potential. On my visit I see a variety of birdlife, red lechwe leaping through the marshes, jackals, two fantastic lion encounters, a honeybadger and also the regular antelope, zebra, wildebeest, etc. There are also two resident brother cheetahs here who are often seen as it drys out a bit more; bear in mind however that if there is a large presence of lions then cheetahs are unlikely to be in the near vicinity. From what I have seen and heard this is definitely a good area for lions.
Xakanaka Area – this is one of the busiest areas of the delta as it can be accessed by all the self drive people and there are various campsites for them and also for mobile camping safari operations. This was emphasised when on my first visit into the park we find a leopard and within minutes there are 15-20 other vehicles following him along the roadways – this was a horrible start to the experience however it did get better as the afternoon progressed. One cannot argue that this is one of the best areas in Botswana for gameviewing; I have seen 2 separate leopard on one game drive and then the male again this morning as he lounges in a tree. A healthy resident pride of lions also provides good viewing and the morning before I arrived they killed a small buffalo in front of everyone providing some pretty amazing entertainment. It is a fairly tree based area and therefore you have strong leopard sightings fairly regularly. Cheetah and wild dogs are around however not till later in the season and even then they are not that obvious as they do not often share territories with the larger cats such as the lions and leopards.
The second leopard viewing was much better than the first as there were only two vehicles and we were able to follow her for a good 20mins as she wandered across the grassland, leapt a river and then pounced on a baby francolin for an appetizer; after watching for a good while we left her to stalk off into the bushes for her main course. A fantastic viewing in perfect light with hardly any other vehicles around. When it is like this it is a spectacular area; it is never going to be easy though when you have so many self-drive vehicles being able to access this area of the Delta.
Excellent game viewing with the last morning providing 3 leopards on an impala kill! Real adrenalin stuff with fights for position and dominance and the highly unlikely spectacle of seeing three leopards on a kill…hyena are also spotted the night before along with herds of elephants, wildebeest and the usual bunch of culprits.

Stanley’s and Baines community area: this area is controlled by the local communities and therefore activities etc in the area change fairly regularly. Only two sister camps are based here, Stanley’s and Baines. This does give you come privacy on game drives and viewings, etc. Apparently this does have better leopard sightings than Chief’s as it is better suited topography however they are still elusive! Cheetah are also visitors to this area however more in the drier season once the waters have receded. As with the entire delta it appears that the best game viewing is October and November time however clients must be prepared to endure high temperatures.
Having visited for two nights and seen a pair of leopards mating on both days it is pretty impressive! On reading the game sightings book it does look as though leopard are regularly seen and in particular there is one female leopard that is very habituated to the vehicles and often walks under the vehicles; during my stay on two separate occasions she was only a metre away from the vehicle. Lions in this area however are more rare (which is probably why leopard are more seen) and even though you here them most nights, they are actually in the Moremi Reserve which is approx 0.5km away and it is not possible to access it from Stanley’s or Baines.
During my stay I also had the pleasure of visiting a hyena den that was nearby to camp and where a number of young cubs were being holed up; a real thrill as you watch the hyena clan interact, woop and generally make mischief!


Accommodation in Chobe National Park

Desert and Delta: Chobe Game Lodge – a large lodge in Chobe with 46 rooms! Lovely location directly on the southern banks of the Chobe River and only 20mins transfer from Kasane airport. The lodge provides good access to the park however it is rather large. Staff are friendly however even from one meal service does not seem to be that quick. There is a nice pool with views over the river. A variety of activities are possible from here including game drives, boat trips on the river, walks along the river bank, wildlife videos in the conference room, stargazing equipment on the roof and a beauty salon and a gym! Rooms are fairly standard with ensuite facilities (shower and bath), balconies overlooking the river; rooms have barrel vaulted ceilings. Maggie runs the game drives and client activities from a desk in front of reception and she is a star! There is also a game viewing platform on the riverfront from where you can see elephants grazing on the banks over to your right.
The more I stay here the more I like it. Friendly staff always there to help you and try their best to give you the utmost service. Even though it has 46 rooms it is the ONLY lodge located inside the park and therefore this is a real selling point. The boat trip is brilliant with lots of game to see – I would probably recommend the evening boat trip as this is when the herds of elephants come down to the river and often cross over to the other side. This is in fact the second smallest lodge in Chobe after Chobe Chilwero and therefore is a very good option for clients. From what I have seen this is the second best available.

Chobe Marine Lodge – a large lodge set in the middle of town. Fairly standard rooms but not particularly much character. Views of the river as you would expect. Swimming pool and two restaurants, one for breakfast and one for dinner. This is geared quite heavily towards conferences as well which is not ideal for clients on holiday. Also located outside the park and therefore approx a 15min transfer to the gates which does not give you much flexibility if you see game just before gates shut. Approx 60 rooms.

Mowana Lodge – once again located in town. Probably the better of the two when compared to Marina Lodge. Clinton stayed here in 1998 and it seems to hold some fairly high powered summits. A nice location on the river bank again. Rooms have private terraces and various wood furnishings. A lovely big Morami tree is the centre piece of the main courtyard. The main bar is raised on the second floor therefore giving nice sunset views over the river. The usual curio shop and activity centre. I quite liked this lodge and it would probably be my number 3 for the area. Swimming pool as you would expect and the usual restaurants, etc.

Sanctuary Lodges: Chobe Chilwero Lodge – a lovely lodge located approx 10mins from the park entrance. Beautiful views stretch out over the Chobe River and as you are set slightly back up on a hillside this gives you quite a nice feeling of being able to look out over the whole area. Beautiful spa that even I was tempted by…secluded pool and approx 10 lovely rooms with river view. The rooms have lovely big beds which look through to the bathroom which have raised Victorian bathtubs. The dining area is a raised terraced area at the front of the house which affords views out to the river approximately 0.5 miles below. This is definitely the best lodge in the area. Sprawling lawns are home to reclining tables and chairs set under the shade of “trees” (don’t know what type!).

Accommodation in Okavango Delta

Ker and Downey: Shinde Camp – set in it sown private concession this is a lovely camp. As it is a private concession it does mean that you can do activities such as nightdrives, walking safaris and mokoro trips which you cannot do in the actual national park. Sleeping approximately 20pax it is slightly big but it has a homely feel to it with a lovely raised decking area for the campfire and relaxing area and then an even higher raised dining area. The dining area has high backed chairs that make you feel as though you are dining around the long table of a castle! A small curio shop provides some fleeces, hats and books for sale. Raised/stilted tented rooms with wooden beds, ensuite bathrooms (shower), sherry to warm you up at night and hot water bottles during the cold season. You are in the middle of nowhere and therefore you do need to be walked to and from your room at night. Activities aside from those mentioned above also include fishing, game drives, boat trips (more for orientation than game viewing). A pleasant feel to the camp with cosy rooms and various areas to sit back and relax and look out over views of the Delta. Camp Okuti (based down in Xakanaka area) – a nice camp located a few mins upstream from Camp Xakanaka. 10 chalets/tents that look out over the delta. These chalets are connected by raised wooden walkways that creak badly as you walk along them. The interiors are much better with large rooms, comfy chairs, private decking and an indoor and outdoor showers. It does not have as much character as Camp Xakanaka although may be slightly more upmarket. A small swimming pool does also provide an area to cool off in.

Sanctuary Lodges: Chief’s Camp (Chief’s Island private concession in Moremi Reserve) – a beautiful camp with 12 permanent tents set on raised stilted platforms above the delta. My room looks out over the waterways and reeds as kingfishers dip into the marshes below. Rooms consist of ensuite bathrooms with western loo, double basins and indoor and outdoor showers. A comfortable private terrace affords views into the wilderness as vervet monkeys and tree squirrels play in the branches above. A fridge and comfy seating area provide the luxury that you would expect and along with a fan and also electric blankets it is fairly impressive. The communal area is through from a substantial curio shop and consists of an open air and also roofed dining area and terrace that overlook the waterways where you can do 1hr long mokoro trips. As this is in the Moremi Reserve and not a private concession this does limit your activities to game drives and short makoro trips. Night drives and walking safaris are not possible. Rooms also now have wireless internet connection although this is quite slow it does work!

Xakanaka Moremi Reserve: Xakanaka Camp – this is the principal accessible point of the Delta for self drives, fly ins etc and has the main airstrip which is fairly busy. Xakanaka Camp consists of 13 tents located along the delta waterway. This is a classic old camp that is run by Bob and Flo Flaxman who have been here for years and have a number of yarns to tell you as you sit round the campfire. The tents are comfy but mid range in standard with nice double beds, wooden floors, private terraces, open air bathrooms with wicker walls, gas shower and western loo. The communal area has a large covered dining room resting on the delta banks, comfy sofas, a large boma jutting out over the delta and a self service bar. Activities include game drives, a short 2 min makoro trip and boat trips along the delta (motorboat). A small swimming pool to cool off in. Letti is the lovely lady at front desk who will help you with all of your needs. Popcorn is the resident juvenile crocodile that they have bathing in the sun on the banks of the lagoon! Camp Moremi - Not one of my favourites. It is located a few minutes down stream from Xakanaka and has 11 tents. This seems to be more for groups with a large dining area and modern bar set up in an almost tree house like style; beneath this is a curio shop and then there is also a look out point looking over the delta. Meru style tents are raised up off the ground and are clean and comfy with separate modern looking bathrooms that personally I do not feel fit with the keeping of an African safari. A large covered area on sweeping lawns down to the river provides a dining area. A small swimming pool to cool off in.

Stanley’s Camp (Stanley’s and Baines private concession) – much more rustic than Chief’s with more of a bushcamp feel to it. It still has all the basic necessities that one requires however it does not have the frills of the top camps and lodges. A circus style tent main area with a huge jacaranda tree growing through the middle of it affording views out to the delta. This main area is slightly raised on wooden decking and has a small library, curio shop and the dining area. If you walk through this main area and along the raised wooden decking you come to the swimming pool; it is not big however it has a few loungers and looks straight out onto the delta. The 8 tents are also based on raised wooden decking and are Meru style. Simple beds with cabinet and writing desk before going through to the ensuite bathroom which has a shower and western loo. Perfectly comfortable however this should be sold as more of a bush experience rather than luxury. Stanley’s is also one of the only camps from where you can walk with the elephants along with Chief’s and Baines. A great feeling of wilderness in the evening as you listen to the lions roaring and watch the hyenas sniffing round your tent! Baines Camp – approximately 1hr drive from the airstrip this is slightly more upmarket than Stanley’s which is also reflected in the price. Stilted walkways with rope links join the camp together. The walls are insulated with 150,000 cans (coke cans, etc) although these are hidden behind the plaster work. The stilted communal area looks out over the river and has a lovely boma (fireplace) on this area. This circular communal area surrounds a termite mound which is often home to chameleons and monitor lizards and is the centre piece for the outdoor dining at night, the indoor dining in the morning, the lounge area with comfy sofas and the boma – all overlook the river. The 5 rooms are all named after famous painters (hence Thomas Baine) and each have a picture of his (replica) on the wall. Double beds look out of large glass sliding doors onto the private terrace and the Delta; these doors can be slid back and the bed rolled back so that you can sleep out under the stars! This is quite a popular camp for honeymooners! Private dinners for honeymooners are also possible on their private verandah or alternatively by the pool where they light the entire area with candles. Activities include game drives, night drives, walking with the elephants and also boat trips (not possible at Stanley’s); this is often popular for sunset drinks.

For further detailed information on Botswana safaris please see the links below:

Botswana Safari - an oevrview of safaris in Botswana and what one can expect
Botswana Wildlife Safaris - detailed information on what wildlife you can expect to see during your safari in Botswana
Botswana Lodge Accommodation - a breakdown of individual lodges in Botswana and what they offer
Botswana Safari Holidays - further information on the Main Attractions that Botswana has to offer
Botswana Safari - a variety of tailor made and small group safaris to Botswana