Kenya Safari Recce - July 2008

I have taken the overnight flight to Nairobi numerous times, mostly skipping Kenya and heading for other East African destinations famed for their primates such as gorilla tracking safaris in Rwanda. This time, after a long over due absence, Nairobi was my point of arrival for a recce safari of some of Kenya’s classic national parks and wildlife areas.

I arrived early in the morning on the 17th July and as soon as I had landed I wished I had pre-arranged my visa when I saw the queue for the immigration desk to get a visa. Nevertheless, after a short hold up and handing over $50 I was through and off to meet my pick-up for a short transfer to Wilson airport.

Wilson airport is the main base for Kenya’s domestic scheduled and charter flights and from here my adventure was to really start, as I caught a Twin Otter flight to Meru National Park.

Meru National Park is one of Kenya’s classic national parks and was opened in 1968. It covers some 870 sq km of what has been described as “remote and rugged wilderness”. It is famed for its connection to George and Joy Adamson along with Elsa the Lioness, star of their biographical book and film “Born Free”. It is an untamed park that is definitely on-the-up after a heavy bout of poaching in the 70’s and 80’s.

After touching down at the Meru airstrip I was meet by my hosts for the next couple of nights, the Offbeat Meru crew. However, before heading to the Offbeat’s camp I took a quick diversion to see another lodge in the area, Elsa’s Kopje. Named after Elsa the lioness, the camp has a wonderful position on Mughwango Hill over looking the plains and bush below, as well as the site of George Adamson’s original campsite. Pictures in camp remind you that on the very same rocks you wander around Elsa played and surveyed her world.

After enjoying a spot of lunch I was given a tour of this delightful lodge. My highlight was a scramble up the kopje rocks that tower above the lodge and when I got to the top – what a view. Seeing Meru stretch out before my eyes was a fabulous sight that was an inspiration to explore this remarkable park.

On our way to camp that afternoon I got a real flavour of what Meru has to offer. It’s a strikingly scenic park with a diverse range of habitats that’s home to a wide variety of Kenyan wildlife; there is plenty just waiting to be seen but you have to work for your rewards. On the way I saw elephant, grants gazelle, reticulated giraffe and the rare Grevy’s Zebra. As we crossed one of the 13 rivers, which are the life force of the park, we spotted 3 lions cubs resting up under an acacia bush. Whilst they lolled about and idly played I wondered where their mum was. It wasn’t until I caught a movement in some long grass that I realised she was keeping cover near by, wanting to avoid our preying eyes.

After a great drive I rolled into the Offbeat Meru Camp, a lovely tented camp that is set above the pretty Bisanandi River; a murmuring stream lined with palms and shaded by large acacia tortilis trees. It even boasts its own swimming pool which I took full advantage for a refreshing dip.

The next day was devoted to exploring Meru National Park and it soon delivered some firsts for me; twiga swala the giraffe antelope, more commonly known as gerenuk and the very elegant beisa oryx. My highlight for the day was spotting a couple of Meru’s ‘bush’ lions, quite unlike the ruffed mane lions of the Mara. These are lean, scarred and scrub hardened loins. Males seem to sport Mohican tufts rather than ample manes of the Mara lions. Like a lot of the predators in the park they tried to keep a low profile in the long grass (as result of past poaching) but as they were only metres from the road they were a magnificent sight.

Sitting by the camp fire that night with a beer in hand chatting to the amiable Arian Allen, the camps manager I realised that this untamed park had already made an impression on me. My short stay here was a great introduction of one of Kenya’s forgotten classic parks.

After my two nights in Meru National Park I took a flight across to the Lewa Downs. My flight was incredibly scenic as I flew across the Nyambeni Hills to land on a small airstrip barely noticeable until the last minute tucked in amongst the great bowl of rolling grassland plains, ridges and hills of acacia of this beautiful private wildlife conservancy.

The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy was originally a cattle ranch run by the Craig family. In 1983, part of it was sectioned off to create the Ngare Sergoi Rhino Sanctuary, started by Ann Merz. This set the seed for a compete transformation from working cattle ranch to one of East Africa’s leading private wildlife conservancy areas which was established as the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in 1995. It is now a model for wildlife and community development which has also extended in to the Massai community lands surrounding the conservancy and farther a field. Encompassing the whole of Lewa Downs as well as the government-owned Ngare Ndare Forest Reserve the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy has created a 61,000 acre sanctuary for lion, leopard, cheetah, buffalo, elephant, black and white rhino, Grevy’s and Common Zebra, reticulated giraffe, hippo, eland, waterbuck, vervet monkeys, olive baboons, impala, grants gazelle and much more besides …

As a result of it’s vigorous anti-poaching team (almost 200 in all) wildlife populations are on the up and such is the success that many species have been translocated to other parks to boast populations and genetic diversity. As I was to soon find out it is a fantastic wildlife area to visit.

After landing safely I took a leisurely game drive with my guide, Silas, who was very enthusiastic about all the wonders of Lewa, especially its varied bird life which he was able to call out upon demand with his strange whistles and screeches! After seeing plenty of birds and Grevy’s zebra we gradually headed towards my home for the night the fabulous Lewa Wilderness Lodge. This delightful luxury lodge and its guest cottages are part of the original family home of the Craig’s and it’s still home to Will and Emma Craig who are the congenial hosts along with their team of professional guides. As we drove up to the lodge I caught sight of Will’s latest toy, his classic yellow bi-plane. If you are feeling brave he’s happy to take guests for a fly by tour of the ranch and a peek at Mount Kenya! I skipped on this chance as I had an exciting flight over anyway!

There is a healthy lion population in Lewa who can be quite reclusive but if you put in the time there is a good chance of seeing the ’king of the cats’. Leopards are present but are quite elusive possibly due to their very fraught relationship with the Lewa’s resident lions. However, because it is a private reserve you are able to go on night drives increasing your chance of seeing the cats. So this is exactly what I did in the evening and I was duly rewarded with a great sighting of two females heading out for a night in the swamp hunting. It’s a magical feeling to see cats at dusk by spot light. The light doesn’t seem to trouble them at all and they happily go about their business, which is far more active than their normal daily routine of sleeping and generally lolling about.

I returned to the lodge a happy man and then proceeded to enjoy delicious home cooked curry for dinner. The fire side chat later that evening soon turned to Lewa’s most famous residents, the 3 Brothers. These 3 male cheetahs can be found in the conservancy and they are renowned for hunting of ostrich, which is a unique but a very rare sight. Simon King (Big Cat Diaries) has been busy filming for a new TV series, so keep watching out for this. They have also been known to take down almost fully grown Grevy’s Zebra (the much larger and heavier cousin of the common zebra). After all this talk I was determined to see if I could find them the next day.

Up and out early is the best way to enjoy the wonders of the African plains. As dawn was breaking I headed out with Silas to see if we could find the 3 Brothers. Now, the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is one of the few areas in Kenya which boasts the Big 5. It’s home to both white and black rhino, lion, leopard, elephant and buffalo. In fact 10% of Kenya’s black rhinos live and thrive on Lewa, it has about 20% of the world’s population of Grevy’s zebra and it’s home to 70 mammal species and over 350 species of birds, so there is plenty to see. Nevertheless my mind was set on seeing the 3 Brothers so I barely noticed the two black rhino we came across, the herds of eland and a host of other wildlife as we scoured the plains for the 3 Cheetah Brothers. When I had almost given up all hope of seeing them, just as we were heading back to the lodge, who should appear beside the road – the elusive 3 Brothers. It was a fantastic sighting as they had full bellies after gorging on a recent kill and we followed them until they took to a cosy hiding spot were they could rest undisturbed. It was a magical may to end my brief stay in Lewa.

After gathering my bags I headed overland for the Borana Ranch, stopping for a quick visit to the Lewa Safari Camp on my way. This is another option for a stay on the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. The camp is set amongst the rolling plains of the conservancy with a dramatic backdrop of the snow-covered massif of Mt Kenya, it’s a great tented camp to explore this remarkable area from. My journey up to the Borana Ranch was a dramatic one as our Landrover clambered up a rough track to the more rugged, rockier and higher (6,500 feet above sea level) plateau area where the Borana Ranch Lodge is perched. If you drive this way you will get to see a spectacular sight, an enormous rocky outcrop that over looks the plain below and is said to be the inspiration for the lion rock featured in the Disney’s film the Lion King.

Borana is another fabulous lodge that has a rustic luxurious charm with bags of ranch character. The lodge seems to have grown organically from the rocks on which it was built and the furniture is made from old posts and wood found on the ranch. Perched high on a rugged scrub bush Samangua Valley it has panoramic views of Mount Kenya, across the Lewa Plains to the Ngare Ndare Forest, as well as overlooking a waterhole that is frequently visited by a host of wildlife.

That afternoon I set out with the lodge manager Amory Macleod for a guided tour of the ranch. Borana is a haven for a wide diversity of wildlife but it isn’t as easily accessible as Lewa, due to the terrain and less open habitats. Its 32,000 acres encompasses rolling grassland in the western part dominated by Whistling Thorn, as well as mixed bushland, green riverine vegetation along its rivers and hillsides of olive and pencil cedar. This is a working cattle ranch but again wildlife conservation is very much part of the ranches ethos and as such boasts an increasing wildlife population. Lion and leopard can be seen, along with elephant and reticulated giraffes at a number of waterholes. There’s also a good variety of the northern antelope species including the Jackson’s hartebeest, which is more common in Uganda but can also be found on the Laikipia Plateau. My highlight, whilst on the ranch, was a sighting of a rare and more elusive primate. The ranch is a haven for the delightful Patas Monkey and is one of the best places to see them in East Africa.

The next day I was off to another private ranch and wildlife reserve on the Laikipia Plateau but on the morning of my departure I had a rather painful encounter with a scorpion. Whilst pulling on my trousers I felt a burning sting on my leg and to my shock a scorpion dropped out of my trouser leg. I rushed over to the main lodge where Amory advised a hot water bottle was the best way to relieve the increasingly painful burning sensation. As a result of this school boy error (I left my trousers hanging near a pile of drying wood) I had to endure a scalding hot water bottle on my leg as I headed to catch my flight from Lewa to Loisaba.

Loisaba Lodge is situated in the heart of the private Loisaba game ranch, which spans the border of the Laikipia Plateau and Kenya’s rugged northern frontier district. This is a working ranch but the farm management along with the local Laikiiak Masai and Samburu communities work together to preserve the environment and wildlife that abounds here. The lodge itself has a stunning position, perched on the edge of an escarpment looking out towards Mount Kenya and overlooking a waterhole and the scrub plains below.

Loisaba Lodge is a remarkable ‘ranch lodge’ that offers a diverse range of activities and I spent a couple of day exploring this property of untamed bush and rugged beauty. Loisaba is made for adventure and relaxation as it offers day and night game drives, bush breakfasts, sundowners, helicopter safaris, balloon safaris, horse riding, guided walking safaris, camel trekking, mountain biking, river rafting (seasonal), visits to local tribal ‘enk’angs’ (villages), fishing, bird watching, tennis, swimming, bocce ball, croquet and pampering health spa treatments.

But it’s not all about adventure activities as there are over 50 mammal species to be found on the Ranch, with good numbers of both Grevy’s and Common zebra, Besia Oryx, buffalo, elephant and Greater Kudu. I had a fantastic sighting of a couple of male Greater Kudu and could only marvel at their magnificent double spiralled horns. Like the rest of Laikipia cat numbers are on the increase and there is a healthy lion population which have been collared as part of the Laikipia Predator Project. Sometimes they can be tricky to track down but heading out with a radio tracker is an option on the ranch. Early morning balloon safaris are also an option, offering a totally different perspective on the wildlife below. It has been known to see both leopard and hunting dog as you silently drift by.

Combining Loisaba Lodge with a stay at their community run ‘Star Bed’ Camps offers a unique bush experience. Their ‘Star Beds’ are a completely different safari experience where you can sleep out underneath the stars in rustic comfort on a uniquely designed ‘Mukokoteni’ – a bed on wheels. Looked after by a team of traditional Samburu and Laikipiak Masai warriors a stay here is a truly memorable experience.

After a cracking couple of days on Loisaba I next headed overland to the nearby ranch of Sosian.
Upon my arrival I was whisked off to a late bush breakfast near to the delightful waterfalls of the Euaso Narok River, which offers an alternative swimming experience! That afternoon I settled into my delightful cottage, part of the old Ranch House which has been lovingly restored. It takes you back in time to the simple grandeur of a 1940’s ranch home with a spacious dining room, billiards & game rooms and an elegantly furnishing sitting room with a large fire place. After a couple of hours to relax I went out on a late afternoon drive with the lodge manager, Steve Carey, with the aim of heading to a camera trap to see if it had captured an image of one of the many leopards on the property. No luck but as an alternative distraction we picked an antenna to track down a pack of wild dog which have been fitted with radio collars as part of an ongoing research project. Sadly they eluded us as, although we could pick up their signal, they were tucked away in an inaccessible valley.
The next morning I went out for a wonderful horse ride on the ranch. It’s a great feeling to be atop a horse and get right in amongst the action of grazing zebra, Oryx and impala. Just be wary of elephants as they aren’t the best of friends with our trusty steeds! After a great morning on horseback I then went out on an exploratory walking safari with both Steve and Annabelle (my gracious hosts). Steve wanted to check-out a secluded valley as a possible route for future fly-camping, so we headed into the bush with gun in hand (thankfully in Steve’s safe hands). A walking safari is great experience as you get a totally different perspective on what’s around you. You might not see bags of wildlife but seeing tracks, the small wonders all around and the occasional close encounter with zebra, impala, oryx and alike is thrilling indeed. We had to make a large detour round a gulley to avoid a feeding herd of elephants. Peering down through the bushes to see them just below us, trunks raised trying to catch our scent, was a magical safari moment.

After a couple of fantastic days on the ranch, my time at Sosian was up. During my stay at Lewa, Loisaba and Sosian I gained a new found enthusiasm for Kenya and these private conservancies and ranches of Laikipia Plateau. The ranches are pioneering community conservation and wildlife management and for those that visit they are great wildlife destinations in their own right. They are suitable not only for the adventurous safari goers but for families, couples and anybody who wants a unique safari experience.

The last leg of my Kenyan safari odyssey was to the magical Masai Mara but before catching a flight to the Mara I spent a night at Porini’s Rhino Camp, located in the 90,000 acre Ol Pejeta Conservancy near Mt Kenya. My stay here was dominated by a night of torrential rain but despite this I was able to enjoy a game drive through one of East Africa’s largest Black Rhino sanctuaries where all the Big 5 can be found. To be honest I didn’t see much past the rain but I was assured by the very hospitable Porini camp crew that there is plenty to see and it was a very attractive park. After my brief stop I caught a flight from Nanyuki direct to the Masai Mara.

The Masai Mara is a far larger eco-system than just the Masai Mara National Reserve itself. It also encompasses the Mara Triangle which is managed by the Masai Conservancy and extends into the Greater Mara area which is home to the traditional Maasai community lands. Mara means dappled in the in the Maa language, which aptly describes this amazing area of rolling savannah hills bisected by dark green riverine forest areas.

The Serengeti-Mara ecosystem supports the most diverse migration of grazing mammals in the world and the Masai Mara is crucial in sustaining this mass migration of wildebeest, zebra and gazelles. Its rich grasslands are able to support these vast herds of migrating animals from Tanzania during critical points in the dry season. Their arrival and spells a bonanza for the Mara’s big cats and it is one wonder that BBC film crews have based themselves here for several years filming their Big Cat Diaries.

My landing in the Mara was quite an event, as we had to fly past the airstrip to clear a passing heard of elephants and when I was finally on the ground I noticed a female lion at the furthest end of the runway just watching us unload!

After hurriedly picking up my bags I was whisked off for a game drive as we head to my camp for the next three nights, Offbeat’s Mara Camp. This is a secluded tented camp situated along the Olare Orok river, on Koyiaki Group Ranch just north of the Masai Mara Game Reserve. This unspoilt part of Masailand is an area full of wildlife but is suitably far enough away from any other lodge. Its situation in the heart of the greater Mara area gives it good access to this diverse area where the migrating herds and resident game are free to roam. The Offbeat Mara camp also works closely with the local Masaai community employing many local Masaai guides and camp crew, as well as contributing to community funds.

Over the next three days in the Mara I had a busy schedule of visiting a host of fantastic camps and lodges in the Mara; including Rekero, Governors Camps, Kicheche, Elephant Pepper, Porini Lion Camp, Kichwa Tembo, Richard’s Camp, Serian, Intrepids and a clutch of others. All vary slight in what they offer in terms of their accommodation and the safari experience you can have but they are all dedicated to showing you the best of what the Mara has to offer. It is just a matter of picking a camp or lodge that best suites your taste and budget.

My time in the Masai Mara wasn’t just dashing from one camp to another and I managed to squeeze in some fantastic game viewing. Of course I had to see the famed Marsh Pride of the Musiara Swamp near the Governors Camps lined along the Mara River. They are worthy of all the attention, as during a couple visits I was spell bound by the playful cubs and an occasion when there was a highly amusing standoff between the lionesses and a belligerent bull buffalo.

Although the vast herds of wildebeest were starting to pour into the Mara I didn’t actually get to see one of their famed crossings of the Mara River. Nevertheless seeing the plains covered in a multitude of black dots which on closer inspection through binoculars materialized as the grazing and trampling hordes of wildebeest was an amazing sight. One afternoon whilst idly watching the Marsh pride, from a distance, a thundering column of wildebeest, spooked by them, headed towards us veering away only at the last minute. The dust, smell, sound of their grunts and pounding hooves was an incredible experience. Another memorable highlight was seeing a young leopard cub on it’s own near Kicheche camp. It was in the late afternoon just as dusk was falling and it came out of cover to make a rather feeble stalking attempt at some passing impala. The Impala were far too big for it but to see it walking through cover and watching the impala pass by was a real thrill. I later learnt that the cub was one of Bella’s, of Big Cat Diary fame. It’s just a shame I didn’t get to see her in action! There’s always a reason to return.

My time in Kenya was fantastic and it re-kindled my enthusiasm for this classic safari destination. Not only does it offer some of the oldest and best parks in East Africa but with a host of private wildlife conservancies Kenya does offer unparalleled diversity; it can boast a diverse array of habitats, wildlife, accommodation and activities. It is a great destination not only first time safari goers but also season wildlife enthusiasts and there’s plenty to go back for again and again …

For more detailed information on Kenya Safaris please click on the relevant links listed below:

Kenya Safari Holidays - an overview of Kenya as a safari destination
Kenya Wildlife Safaris - detailed information on the wildlife that you are likely to discover on your Kenya safari
Kenya Lodges - a breakdown of individual lodge descriptions in Kenya
Kenya Safari - further information on the main attractions that you can expect to encounter on your Kenya Safari
Safaris to Kenya - a selection of Kenya safaris; these safaris can be tailor made to suit your specific requirements

India Recce - Tigers and Temples of Asia - April 2008

India Tiger Safari APRIL 2008, Travel Notes


9 April
1720hrs BA flight to Delhi, Easy check in online before departing for airport means that all I need to do is go to bag check in and then straight through security…easy! An 8hr flight means that I arrive into Delhi at 0620hrs. Very easy to retrieve bags...

Other airlines operating to Delhi include Virgin and Jet. Jet is apparently the best airline as BA has reportedly lost a lot of baggage over time.

With a 20 min transfer to my hotel the Vikram International, I have a quick shower and then am back out on the road out hotels in Delhi.

Vikram International – clean and comfy hotel of approximately 3 star standard. No pool and just off the main road however a fairly pleasant restaurant and friendly and helpful staff. Ensuite rooms with not particularly interesting views. Would probably recommend for mid-range clients.

Ambassador Hotel – an old heritage hotel which is now owned by Taj. I quite liked this hotel as it had some character. Nice pool, although this has had to be rebuilt due to the new Metro being built through the middle of it!

Vasanya Continental – this is the 5 star option that is often used. Nice big pool and clean and comfy 5 star hotel. Would be good for upmarket clientele. Also fairly central for accessing the main area of Delhi. A nice busy atmosphere.

Intercontinental – very similar to all Intercontinental Hotels over the world. A nice roof terrace and bar area overlooking Delhi and a nice central pool area with outdoor restaurant nearby. The hotel has a couple of restaurants and a decent bar. Views overlook the meditation centre (looks a bit like the Sydney Opera House!).

In general, accommodation in Delhi is expensive with most hotels costing approximately USD$300+.

Delhi is basically chaos. Cars and people everywhere...

Goa and Kerala – these are the principal beach destinations that clients would add on at the end of their trip. Lots of accommodation, good beaches and nice weather.

Best Times of Year to Visit India for Wildlife – the best months are October – April. May and June (up to mid-June) are very hot, however as the vegetation dies it does mean that a lot of the wildlife moves to the restricted water holes and therefore if you can bare the heat this is a good time for wildlife viewing! The National Parks in general shut on 15th June and open again on 1st October.

Having checked out a number of hotels I returned to Hotel Vikram at approximately 1630hrs and went to bed as had not slept on the flights! First impressions were fine, Delhi seems to be much the same as many African cities, although I have not been bothered once by anyone; everybody seems fairly relaxed.

11 April
0400hrs – wake up and make my way to the airport. 20 mins drive back to the international airport where we catch our flight to Ahmedabad. Some internal flights go from International Airport and others from the Domestic Airport so this is something to watch out for!

1hr 40min flight brings us to Ahmedabad. This is a very wealthy area of India with strong textiles and tea making industries including IT etc. This area (including Rann of Kutch and Gir National Park) are in the State of Gujarat which has no drinking laws as this is where Gandhi was from and therefore this is done as a sign of respect. Met at the airport by the local representative we drive approximately 1hr 45mins to the lodge, Ran Riders. Along the way you will follow the railway line and maybe see some camels, local cattle and ladies selling cow dung for use on fires for cooking.

Rann Riders - is a comfortable lodge with a central thatched dining and relaxation area with Indian “bench sofas” and then tiled rooms with mud and cow dung walls located around a central garden/oasis. This really is an oasis in the middle of a fairly dusty and dry desert region. The mud and cow dung walls helps to keep snakes away and also the heat out. Served a nice welcome drink upon arrival in the main thatched area whilst they sort your rooms out. Saying that, I have been sitting here on my little seat-swing outside my room and have just been attacked by a large colony of ants!!! There is also a swimming pool with a nice area where you can relax.

Little Ran of Kutch – this is a semi-desert region with the last remaining populations of Indian wild ass…I am not quite sure why I am here! At certain times of the year it floods to leave the animals stranded on little islands. The region is very flat with no forest or hills. Peacocks roam the restaurant area and there is a fair amount of resident birdlife.

In the afternoon we make our way in a “Mahindra” (type of local jeep) to the park. The Mahindra has two opposite bench seats which could hold 4 pax max; not great for tall people as my head was pushing through the canvas roof! It is a long drive from the lodge to the park (approx 1 hr!). This is in all honesty too far as it is not a particularly comfortable drive either. We spend the next couple of hours on the salt pan looking for various wildlife and manage to find the endangered wild ass. We do manage to find some desert fox and get within 10m of them so that was quite interesting. It is also a nice place to see the sunset. Approximately 10 mins before the salt pan there is also a Information Centre. This pan is quite interesting as it rest at between 4 and 8 metres above sea level and therefore during the rains the sea becomes an inland sea with a number of raised islands where the animals survive.

To summarise, this is not really worth sending clients to as there is not much to see and it is a long way from anywhere. The main emphasis would be to send keen birders during the months of November – February.

I learn all about the Muharaja system which were basically local kings and were ranked in terms of importance and wealth. They start at 9 gun salute Muharaja and increase to 21 gun salute. We follow our chat by a late dinner of excellent Indian food. So far throughout the trip the food has been surprisingly good and very tasty; spices and flavours are unforgettable although one should be wary in case this affects your stomach as they are quite strong and also a big change from UK food.

12 April
0600hrs – tea is brought to my room for my wake up call and then we have breakfast at 0630hrs. Today we have decided to make our way south immediately to Sasan Gir National Park which is the last remaining stronghold of the Asiatic Lion, you can also find leopard here. The decisions was made to not spend another morning in the Little Ran of Kutch as we had basically already seen everything!

Departing at 0700hrs we have a long drive southwards to Gir. 6.5hrs later we arrive at Gir. I was on the look out for a variety of things throughout the drive however in all honesty there is not much too see! It seems that wherever you go, there are huge amounts of people and traffic; with a population of 1 billion (a sixth of the world’s population!) I suppose this is not surprising. The terrain throughout the drive however is fairly dull, passing through a variety of towns and past lots of fields…at one stage we do see some mountains! If clients are going to come to see the Asiatic Lion then it is definitely best to fly them into Diu (an independent State on the South coast) and then it is only a 90km drive from there up to Gir.

Some of the towns that we pass through are slightly more interesting as you see the remains of the old palaces that must used to have been majestic. These palaces are often in ruin now as the families that owned them have left them to deteriorate as they just could not afford to run them anymore. One of the main interesting things that we see along the way is the men and women that are members of the “Jain” religion. The women dress all in white robes and bare foot and the men dress naked (we did not see the men only the women!). These people are avid monks who will not kill a single thing, they will take no form of transport (so walk everywhere) and have no worldly possessions. They live off the goodwill of other Indians who respect their values and provide them with food, accommodation, etc. The Jain also eat and do their ablutions before sunrise and then only eat after sunset. To me this seems like a fascinating religion of immense commitment in the world of today.

After 6.5hrs of driving we reach Gir National Park and our lodge, Gir Birding Lodge. First impressions are not great, although if the wildlife viewing is good then this is not the end of the world, see below.

Gir Birding Lodge – a very strange reception area (or lack of reception area) and modern chalet like rooms. Bamboo floors (sounds nice but it s not really!) and ensuite bathrooms. Set amongst a mangrove orchard only a few kilometres from the park. A/C rooms and fans mean that the rooms are fairly pleasant during the heat of the day (and it does get hot). The dining area is in the main house upstairs although it is limited probably only seating a maximum of 10 people; this could be a problem seeing as the lodge has 9 double rooms. Food is excellent and the staff are very friendly and amenable

1530hrs – even though the lodge is located right next to one of the entrances to the park we have to drive the 15mins to the other entrance. The Suzuki vehicle and driver are provided by the lodge and the guide is provided by the park – our guide speaks limited English as do most of the park guides by the looks of things.

A semi-dry deciduous forest provides the home to a variety of animals including Asiatic lion, leopard, hyena (rare), jungle cat, marsh crocodiles, a variety of deer (Samba) and antelope, langur monkeys, wild boar and some good birdlife including crested serpent eagles, hawk eagles, ibis, cranes, herons, kingfisher and much, much more. For the first hour or so we see nothing and then whilst we are resting at one of the park outposts there is a sudden rush as everyone hears there are lion down the road. We follow. This is one of the best lion sightings I have ever had. A mother and two cubs are strolling up the road and settle down 5m away from the vehicles. We spend the next 45mins or so taking pictures and watching them. Brilliant, great pics and a real experience – beautiful healthy cubs and very relaxed around the vehicles. Compared to Africa, the guides and staff are much more noisy and on occasions I feel they push the wildlife too hard and unsettle them. This seems on occasions to be due to a lack of experience. Carrying on we come across two healthy male brothers who are lounging in the bushes. The guides (one in particular named Murat) are happy to walk around on foot and when one of the males suddenly comes charging out of the bushes they do not even flinch but Murat just bangs his staff and the male trots round to my side of the vehicle and lies down rolling about on his back like an oversized domestic cat!

Returning to the gate (next to our lodge) we go to visit the Lions Safari Camp.

Lion Safari Camp (Camps of India) – this is a pleasant camp set on the banks of the river. 21 tents with A/C, an open air dining room looking out over the river. Nice friendly staff and good food (although admittedly not as good as food at Gir Birding Lodge). Set amidst mangrove orchards once again. They have plans for a swimming pool to be built this summer (2008). Approximately 10mins from the park gates.

We return to our lodge for a few beers, chat and a lovely dinner. Bed by 2230hrs and ready for another game drive in the morning.

13 April
0600hrs wake up call with a cup of tea, quick shower and then breakfast of omelette and a variety of other Indian choices if you so wish.

0650hrs – we set off to the park for another game drive. Sadly the park does not open until 0700hrs which in my opinion is too late as the best times to see cats are early morning hours and late evening; this is when they are most active. This morning in the 3hrs that we are in the park we see no cats which is a shame however it is a beautiful drive and we see a much wider and more diverse area of the park. The park consists of one or two rivers running through it which provide ideal habitat for leopards and good drinking sources for the other fauna. We make our way up to the man-made reservoir which is surrounded by mist covered hills and driver along the edge spotting marsh crocodiles, egret, herons, ibis and a crested serpent eagle. A lovely area and one that clients must visit as it introduces a lot more variety into the park which otherwise may be slightly dull. Throughout the morning we see, marsh crocodiles, a 5ft long rat snake (!!), a crested serpent eagle, wild boar, a variety of antelope and deer and mongoose. Even though we did not see any of the cats we still found tracks of a variety of lion and 3 separate leopard tracks which is a great sign that they are around. Nowadays there are 340 lion in the park and approximately 500 leopard! This has to be one of the best parks and areas in the world for chances of seeing leopard. The guides say that one can expect to see leopard every 3-4 days.

After the visit to the park we visit some other lodges:

Maneland Lodge – has potential if they renovated it. Structured to look like an old palace however sadly the rooms are fairly dirty and shabby and staff are not exactly enthusiastic. Ensuite bathrooms but not much atmosphere.

Gir Lodge – this belongs to Taj Hotels who have recently been joined by CC Africa. A great location on the edge of the river with nice views. Currently closed for renovation and not sure when it is going to open. Approximately a 15 min drive to the park gates.

After this we also visit the Information Centre which is a must for clients. Good picture boards explaining about the local park history, the local tribes that still live in the park (the Malhdarin – very beautiful looking people), the fauna and flora and the problems that are faced in the present day. There is also a crocodile park nearby however this is very run down and not a particularly pleasant experience with approximately 15 marsh crocodiles in very shabby looking cages and pools.

1530hrs – we set off on another game drive through Gir National Park.


To summarise on Gir I do think that it is worth visiting however one should stay probably for 3 nights in order that you secure 5 game drives and maximise your chances of seeing lion and leopard. A good park.

14 April
Another early start as a long way to go today.

0530hrs – wake up call and then at 0600hrs we set of back up north to Ahmedabad. A 6hr drive with not an incredible amount to see along the way. Quick lunch in the Green Lotus restaurant and then to the airport for our flight.

1535hrs – flight to Mumbai (Bombay) where we have to walk over to the other terminal for our onward flight to Nagpur.

1835hrs – flight from Mumbai to Nagpur (slightly delayed). Arriving at 2000hrs (1hr flight) we drive the 2hrs to Pench National Park. It takes a while to get out of the town as there is a religious ceremony going on and therefore some of the roads are blocked.

2330hrs – after a bit of dilly dallying, getting stuck in festival traffic, etc we arrive at Pench Jungle Camp, have dinner and manage to get to bed at 0200hrs!

15 April
0530hrs – wake up call (after 3.5hrs sleep!) and set off on game drive at 0600hrs. Sadly we see nothing apart from a few deer and birdlife.

Pench National Park – a nice park with another dam in it which provides drinking access for the wildlife. Tigers and leopards are the main attraction with the main sightings having been of leopards recently. Tigers the best sightings seem to have been between November and February, although saying that in CCAfrica visitor book a lot of guests had reported seeing them in April. Great leopard habitat with Pench River running through the park and excellent rock outcrops along river beds.

0930hrs – we cut our game drive short as the elephants are not in action at the moment due to maternity leave, one being killed and one being injured. I have been informed that this is definitely the best way to see tigers as the mahouts will locate the cat and then a group of cars will move off to where the tiger is located. Then 4 people per elephant set off to see the tiger through the bush. This is reliably the best way of seeing them. The park also has a good visitor centre at the park gates.

Afterwards, we visit a few lodges starting with the one that I am staying at:

Pench Jungle Camp – clean and comfy camp with a number of large tents with ensuite bathrooms. Flush toilet and hot and cold shower. Big fan units keep the rooms cool and the rooms have good mosquito netting and a netted front so you can sleep with it open at night if you want. Dining area is in the main building which looks…ok. Not a very inspiring dining room and alright food. A reasonable library and also a television where they show documentary films etc if required.

Tuli Tiger Corridor – will be finished being built in October ready for the main season. Sister lodge of Tuli in Kanha. Tents and rooms. The tents are the most luxurious option with traditional wooden furniture and ensuite double bathroom with claw foot bath. Tents are located in a circle and on the edge of the lake. Very luxurious with golf buggy transport to take you to your rooms, private terrace, big double four poster beds. Rooms are not finished yet, but look good with similar bathrooms, outdoor shower and private terrace under cover and also open air terrace where you can have your small bonfire whilst having pre-dinner drinks. Communal area is in the main building with what looks to be a nice restaurant and also bar area where they will also show wildlife films. The property is built in a palatial style and should be good when finished.

Baghvan (Taj and CC Africa) – as you would expect a lovely lodge. Simple but elegant furnishings throughout and locate on the bank of the river with a swimming pool looking out into the forest. River is only in flow from June through to January! Lovely cottages with two adjoining cottages for families. Ensuite bathrooms with outside shower and also dressing rooms in order to provide more space in the bedroom. Bedrooms are simply and comfortably furnished in keeping with local designs, etc and not quite as over the top as the Tuli bedrooms and furnishings. Excellent service and very friendly and helpful staff. A day room for clients departing later in the day than check out is available and also a library and internet access on one laptop in the library. Expensive property but had some excellent write-ups in the visitor’s book. Safari vehicle are bigger and more comfortable than the standard ones that we are using which are just the standard open top and open sided Suzuki jeeps.

1230hrs – return to Pench Jungle Camp for lunch.

1530hrs – Another game drive in the park. We visit the rocky outcrop to try and find some leopards but none found by us but one found by another vehicle. We manage to find a Jungle Cat which is quite rare so that was quite interesting.

16 April
0520hrs – wake up and set off for the park gate (10mins drive away). Enter the park at 0600hrs. Lots of alarm calls from animals as we explore the park today however sadly we come across nothing. We do find some tiger pug marks which is quite exciting however nothing else apart from a few birds, Blue Buck, Nightjar. We must sell this on the adventure itself and the fact that it is all an experience. Another vehicle does see a tigress which is quite frustrating for us as we have put so much effort in however that is the way that it goes! In terms of visibility you have approximately a 50% chance of seeing tigers (best months apparently from November – January) although one can visit the park and have a good chance of seeing tigers between October and April. In regards to leopards these have a slightly higher hit ratio with maybe a 65% chance. A number of leopard were spotted during our week there…maybe 7 or 8.

0930hrs – set off on the drive for Kanha National Park. This is a 3.5hr drive.

1300hrs – we arrive at Krishna Jungle Lodge

I am now sitting outside my room at Krishna Jungle Resort in anticipation of the afternoon to come. At 1600hrs we set off on our tiger safari…this is one of the best, if not the best places to see tigers in India.

Kanha National Park

Timings – the park is open from 0600hrs – 1100hrs and 1600hrs – 1830hrs (sunset).
Best Times of Year To Visit – October through to June 15th you can visit the park. May and June get incredibly hot (40-45 degrees Celsius) and therefore fairly uncomfortable however as it is so hot, the water pools are limited and the vegetation dies back making it much easier for tiger and wildlife viewing. Most people however visit during October – March.
Access Points – You can access the park from three places although only two of them are really used. One (where Krishna Jungle Lodge is located and closest to Jabalpur) is Kisli gate and the other (approx 1hr 15min drive through the park from Kisli) is Mukki gate. Mukki gate is much quieter than Kisli and less lodges.
Tiger Shows – you drive to the gate in the morning and are allocated your route. All of these routes (from Kisli side) end up at Kanha Observation Centre. Here you have breakfast and wait to see if the mahouts on elephants have found any tigers. Once they have (and if the park warden allows) you are sent off to meet the mahouts. Each car is given a ticket and therefore you all go in dribs and drabs. Meeting the mahouts you then jump on the elephant and walk the distance to where the tiger is located (max 300m from the roadside). Kanha is the main area that this happens and has ten elephants on patrol whereas Mukki has a much smaller place to get your ticket from and only 5 elephants. These tiger shows are only possible in the mornings otherwise in the evening you can only do a jeep safari.
Sightings – it is said that over a 3 day period you should be pretty much guaranteed sightings of at least one tiger. Approximately 70% are seen from elephant back and 30% whilst driving in your jeep.

1600hrs – we depart the lodge for the 10min drive to the park gates. There are 25 cars there when we arrive! We then have to queue and wait whilst the driver organises our ticket to enter the park and we are allocated our park guide (local guy) and the route that we must adhere to for the first section of our trip. After a 20min wait we can eventually set off into the park. What a fantastic park! Beautiful scenery and a wide variety of topography and wildlife. Throughout the afternoon we see a mixture of game including a male tiger (at a distance of 200m walking across the grasslands but still pretty impressive), a sloth bear (rarer than tigers in Kanha Park), Gaur (form of huge bison/cattle) and a variety of wildlife. The scenery is stunning with rolling hills, open plains (which provide great mating habitat for the tigers especially on Kanha Meadows) and bamboo thickets. This is a fantastic afternoon with some great wildlife and scenery.

1830hrs – lucky enough to see a large male tiger walking through the grasslands as we are driving out of the park. 200 metres away but this is still my first tiger ever! A great experience!

On the drive back we stop and check out some lodges:

Tuli Tiger Resort and Tiger Corridor: Resort – clean and comfy mid range accommodation. Nice bar and restaurant area near to the pool but seems to attract a lot of noisy families during the weekends and holidays. Corridor – the luxury part of the property with separate dining room and small pool. Very similar set up to that of Tuli at Pench.

Kipling Camp – a nice cosy property with the elephant that Mark Chapman rode across India. No A/C so not great for when it gets hot however has close proximity to the park. Mid-range property with ensuite facilities. Nice communal area with everyone eating dinner together.

Krishna Jungle Resort – ok for mid-range option.

Shergah (Mukki gate) – this is over at the Mukki gate where tiger sightings are possibly not quite as frequent however it is a lot quieter and much more wilderness. You also do not have as much hassle accessing the park. Nice mid-range tented accommodation with ensuite facilities. This is my preferred options to use. Approx 15min drive to the park gates. Also has a water-hole.

Singinawa (Mukki gate) – run and owned by the great, great grandson of the Maharaja of Nepal. A nice guy who loves his family history and is also a professional photographer who has worked with a variety of other professional photographers. A huge stone built property with nice images and décor. Stone chalets with double ensuite bathroom. Nice pool and also watering hole nearby. Only recently been built so still flora growing to be done. Feels as is you are staying in someone’s big house!

Kahna Jungle Lodge (Mukki gate) – a nice mid-range property with clean, cosy rooms in the forest and on the park boundaries. Leopard are sometimes seen in the area! Fairly un-exhilarating communal area however perfectly acceptable. Only 5mins from the park entrance.

CC Africa and Taj – under construction at the moment.

17 April
0500hrs – wake up call.
0600hrs – set off into the park as I have asked them to pre-register me so that I do not have to wait. There is also a pre-register online booking system now so this wait should be a lot less as you will only have to pick up your jungle guide.

A great morning driving round the park and then we go to the orientation centre where I have a walk round the orientation rooms. Very informative and clients should definitely visit this whilst waiting for the tiger show to be announced as to whether it is taking place or not.

0900hrs – it is announced that due to a local minister being in the park with his 25 family members there is no tiger show (when he returns it turns out there is one!). There is one announced at Mukki gate instead so we drive the 40mins over to that side and get in line. There are only 4 vehicles which is great news however be careful as all of the Mukki properties pre-register just in case there is a show over this side of the park. We don’t wait long until we are off and drive 10mins to where the tiger and the elephants area. Within 5mins I am on the back of an elephant and walking through the bamboo thickets towards the tiger. As we get to her she stands up and walks off…the mahouts manage to manoeuvre by walking around her with the elephants and I have an amazing viewing. Just me and Sanjeev on the elephant and the tigress growling in the grass only 4m away. Very difficult to get good photos and video footage as the elephant is shifting around. This is truly one of THE wildlife experiences and a great thrill. We wander back on the elephant after our 5min viewing time to the road thrilled to bits.

After this we drive over to Mukki (10min drive from this orientation post) to look at some other lodges as listed above. That evening we do a game drive on the way back to the lodge and come across a tigress on the road who gently wanders off into the bushes. Another great experience and we were the only ones there! They do just melt into the forest, their stripes blending into the foliage and then disappear…

18 April
0500hrs – another early wake up call…
0530hrs – set off for the 10min drive to the park entrance.
0540hrs – as the sun is rising earlier the park opening hours also gets earlier. A last game drive in Kanha National Park. Unfortunately a beautiful game drive but we do not see any tigers. Saying this however I have done 4 game drives in Kanha and seen a tiger on every one except this last one. A beautiful park with lots to offer, I just hope that they manage the tourism increase correctly in order to sustain the wildlife at the same time as increasing responsible tourism.

0930hrs – we depart the Hotel and set off on the drive to Bandvagarh leaving Sanjeev at the hotel to look after his guests. He has been a fun and friendly guy to travel with and has been very informative throughout. A 4hr drive through rural villages, forests and hillsides brings us to Bandvagarh National Park. We drop off our things at our hotel the Bandhav Vilas and then set off into the park at 1530hrs.

1530hrs – an interesting game drive with no sightings of tiger, the park does seem to have a good prey base with chital, sambar, wild boar, etc.

1845hrs – we visit Junglemantra lodge where Andy Rouse is staying and have a beer with him. A nice lodge which I will go into later under accommodation section.

2000hrs – a nice dinner at the lodge with Manish the lodge manager and discuss the various pros and cons of tourism in the park and in India in general.

Bandvagarh National Park

Much smaller than Kanha and appears to be much more crowded. Try to avoid weekends and Indian holidays for visiting any of the parks as it becomes full of Indian visitors who are described as “on a picnic” – as in they are not serious about their wildlife and are just popping in and out of the park.
A pleasant hilly park with some good leopard country. Approx 90 tigers (I think) and 24 leopard (I think). Tiger sightings are fairly regular and if you are here for 3 nights you can pretty much be guaranteed a sighting of a tiger or two (please see section General Notes for further info on best times for tiger sightings). The set up for tiger shows is exactly the same as for Kanha National Park. I actually think that it is maybe worth getting to the show later rather than sooner, in this way you do not have to queue as everyone has already gone.
Guides and drivers are not as responsible as at Kanha. Racing round to try and find tigers and generally taking you straight to where they knew a tiger was last seen rather than tracking or making an experience of it. This can result in approx 30cars sitting around a site where a tiger is expected to be as there is no tour system in the afternoon and the park is not large enough for the cars to get lost in.
Another option at both Kanha and Bandvagarh is to hire your own elephant. This would be a real bonus to include this in your tiger safari. This definitely maximises your chances of seeing tigers and it means that you can track them, or join the tiger show and stay for as long as you like. A real experience and highlight of your trip!

Lodges:
Bandhav Vilas – 10min drive from the park. A new property with 20 villa rooms. Made of stone with nice villa rooms although with outdoor showers as well. A large swimming pool and good outdoor eating areas and also outdoor stage area. Dining room and library area are ok however feel slightly too large and some of the furniture is rather heavy and noisy on all of the stone floors. Manish is the manager who used to work for Taj and is a nice guy. Training is still needed. Vegetation round the lodge also requires time to settle everything into place. Probably good for American clients as it has the facilities however I do not feel that it has much of a wildlife or natural feel to it.
Camp Mewar – an interesting camp located directly on the park boundary (10m away). Run by an ex Indian hunter this is quite a nice camp. A series of tented cottages (tented roofs with solid walls) and permanent structures. Very nice inside with ensuite and a nice big bath tub which is run for the return of the clients in the evening. The permanent structures also have their own little bonfire place at each one that you can sit round in the evening. A terrace above the cottage means that you can sunbathe or just sit out and look out over the park or nearby lake. Meals are taken together. Probably the second choice option along with Tree House after Junglemantra; although to be honest these are all pretty much level pegging but just different variations on a theme.
Tree House Hideaway – looks lovely on the website and is lovely although does appear slightly run down and it is only one year old which is a shame. 5 lovely treehouses located around a central dining area and bar which is also a treehouse with a big tree growing up through the middle of it. Private verandahs looking out over the park (is located next door to Camp Mewar), nice ensuite bathrooms and a real wildlife and natural feel to it. Approx 15min drive from the park. This is one of the best options in the area. They are also building a ground floor section to the dining tree house area for winters when it is too cold to be eating upstairs in the open air. This is the upmarket sister property of Kings Lodge.
Junglemantra – I really like this property and it is the one that Andy Rouse was staying at so I was able to taste the food as well which was really good. Only 9 bamboo huts with a real wildlife and ethnic feel. Lovely ensuite bathrooms. A great communal area and the property is located once again on the park boundary (different side to the two above). Lodge owners are Indian-English and are really nice. They spend most of their time there and then when it is closed they are back in the UK. A real property with character. Approx 10min drive from the park entrance. Serves some really good local and English food – I had roast chicken when I visited!
Nature Heritage – an ok mid-range to budget option. The Indian owner really, really knows what he is taking about when it comes to the wildlife in the park, best times to see tiger, best years to photograph tiger, etc and has worked with most of the top photographers. He also knows the best times to visit the other tiger parks as this is when there are more sub-adults present as there is a lot more interaction and therefore they are more visible and also more interesting to watch.

19 April
0530hrs – set off for the park. A good morning although we do not see much. We do a drive up to Bandvagarh Fort which is quite interesting and would be nice to include in the itinerary as it gives a bit more variation. Mainly ruins now it does still have a lot of history and has great views from Vulture Point, or the temple and Princesses Palace. We also spotted tiger pug marks on the way up. It is a steep and twisty road and you are permitted to do this after your morning safari although you often have to swap so that you have a Fort guide with you.

On returning from the Fort we stop off at the tiger show; I hop straight on an elephant and go and see the tigress. It is a good sighting however not as open as previously as she is hiding in the long grass in the water, cooling off as the heat is increasing.

For the rest of the day we visit lodges (as per above). It is 41 degrees Celsius and takes its toll!

1600hrs – set off on another game drive and see no tigers.

1930hrs – I go round to Junglemantra for dinner with Andy and his guests.

20 April
0500hrs – wake up call.
0530hrs – set off into the park. The female with her cubs are spotted on the meadow and we can just see their heads however there are 30 cars surrounding them and I decide to leave them alone. It is not particularly pleasant being part of the hoard and I tried not to be one of them whenever possible as I do not feel that it does the tigers any benefit. Instead I make my way to the tiger show and hop on an elephant and watch a tigress snoozing in the long grass for about 10mins. A really nice way to finish my time in the park and it also proves that if more than one tiger is spotted then there is not such a rush to go to the tiger show or hang around the area that they have been spotted.

0930hrs – set off on the 4hr drive to Jabalpur. An ok drive, making our way through a number of villages and watching the village life go by. Arriving in Jabalpur at 1330hrs.

1555hrs – we catch our train to Agra, which I am on now sitting on my top bunk writing this! Very comfy in first class (only one carriage so have to book in advance) with A/C and fans and an attendant who comes and makes your bed for you. Western loo and squat loo are available. Cell phone and laptop plug chargers – amazing! Very easy but best to grab a porter when you arrive so then if you tell him what class you are he will take you directly to your carriage. On the side of the carriage they have the cabin number that you are in and your name listed! Amazing! Right, I have finally caught up on notes so time to finally relax for a while as feels as I have not done so since I arrive in India. This is a 14hr journey and I am only 2hrs into it… Although on arrival at Agra we are visiting the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort so I am quite looking forward to that.

21 April
0400hrs – arrive into Agra. A good journey, fairly clean loos and had a good sleep as fairly comfortable beds. 10 min transfer to Hotel Yamuna View – an ok hotel and just about acceptable for day use room.

0630hrs – drive 10mins to the Taj Mahal. We walk the 100m through the barrier and then pick up an electric bus which take us to the entrance. This mode of transport is to cut down on the pollution in and around the Taj Mahal. Spend an hour looking round the Taj Mahal – absolutely incredible experience and really worth visiting. It took 22years to build and was constructed by the best industry masters as a mausoleum for Taj Mahal (the wife of the Maharaja…I think!). We then also visit the Red Fort which overlooks the Taj Mahal; still occupied by the military in places but still worth a visit.

Agra in general is not a particularly interesting city and fairly dirty and inhospitable; the main and only reasons for visiting here are the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort.

2300hrs – catch another train to a town near Corbett National Park.

22/23 April
0930hrs – arrive to the train station and have a 1.5hr drive to Corbett National Park. There is a good little hotel/restaurant on the main road about half way to Corbett and is ideal for a drink or breakfast stop and also has western loos.

1200hrs – an early lunch after a presentation by the resident naturalist.

1400hrs – depart to visit lodges in the area and then join the head naturalist of Hideaway who is an excellent guide and takes us to some of the park and also to the Corbett Riverside Hideaway property where we do a short elephant safari. Great fun wading through the river and jungle on top of an elephant!

Infinity Resorts – used to be called Tiger Tops. Big place but still comfy rooms with ensuite facilities, located on the river (with fishing rights) and also a nice swimming pool. This would be the most budget option that we would include for clients however it is still comfy and is approx 20min drive from the park entrance.

Tiger Camp – mid-range. Probably the one that we would use the most. Very good rooms with ensuite facilities, fans and a little terrace area. A nice thatched dining area; all of the rooms and communal buildings are set amidst nice tropical gardens. They also do (as most lodges do at all of the parks) a slide show/wildlife presentation for clients in the evening. River Camp – they also run a very cool camp on the other wide of the park gates along the main road. To access it you have to cross the river in the jeep a number of times however it is worth it! Lovely simple thatched cottages located in the river valley. This is predominantly used for fishing holidays as they have the renowned masheef (I think that is how you spell it?!) fish which gets pretty big! Solar energy and water is accessed from a natural spring across the river. Lovely nature walks however there is not really much of a chance of seeing tigers in this area. On occasions you do get wild elephant.

Corbett Hideaway – the most upmarket option in this area. Very good chalet rooms however they are set out almost like terraced houses and do not have much character. There are also 50 of them which makes it quite a big property. Located on the river with 3 restaurants to eat in, library area, presentation room and nice gardens with a good pool. Corbett Riverside Hideaway – a fantastic tented camp belonging to Hideaway property; approx a 45min drive from the main lodge however located basically in the park. This is a real wilderness camp and we should make very good use of it. You can do elephant safaris from here and wild elephant and tigers are usually in the area. You access the lodge by crossing the river once again. Tents are twin beds with ensuite and western loos and showers. Not the most luxurious but a real way of experiencing the park and seeing the best of the wildlife. Only 8-10 tents and a nice cosy communal area overlooking the river valley. Fantastic property!

Corbett National Park
A beautiful park with real variety. Stunning scenery with two rivers running through it; the main one being the Ramganga. Dhikala is the main area where a lot of the wildlife is seen however you can only access this for a day visit if you are in the Canter which is a big uncomfortable tourist truck – do not recommend it to clients as it is awful and seats approx 25 people at any one time! If you want to take your safari vehicle in then you have to spend a night in one of the Forest Huts in the park – these are clean and comfy and maximise your wildlife viewing as you are in the park and driving around on safari from the early hours as you do not have to wait for the park gates to open. You also have the option of doing a 2-3 day elephant trek through the park and then either camping out or staying at the Forest Huts. Spending 2-3 nights in the park you would expect to have an 80% chance of seeing tigers and wild elephant would basically be guaranteed.

24 April
A short drive back to Tiger Camp prior to the 7hr dive back to Delhi. A day room at a local hotel and then transfer to the airport where I am sitting now!

For further detailed Information on India Safaris please click on the links below:

India Holidays, Holidays in India - an overview as India as a destination
Tiger Safari, India Tiger Safari - detailed information on the wildlife that one can see in India
India Lodges - further information on lodges and camps available in India
Tiger Holidays - information on the Main Attractions in India including wildlife and cultural highlights
India Safari - example safaris that one can do in India combining the wildlife and culture of this magnificent destination

For further Big Cat Safari destinations please visit our website via the following link: http://www.worldbigcatsafaris.com/

Botswana Wildlife Safaris and Vacations - June 2008 Recce

BOTSWANA SAFARI, JUNE 2008

Botswana is a fantastic safari destination with boutique lodges and camps and some of the best wildlife viewing on the African continent.

20th June:

1215hrs – arrive from the Kasane border post from Zambia into Chobe Game Lodge.

1300hrs – lunch on the terrace overlooking the Chobe River.

1500hrs – game drive. The densities of elephant and giraffe herds in the afternoon is immense with herds of elephants of up to 50 and they are meant to get bigger as the season gets drier! A beautiful game drive along the river with the usual sightings and then just as we are starting to make our way back to the lodge we find a leopard resting in a tree!! We spend a fantastic 20mins with her as she rests and then stalks a guinea fowl up in the branches…a real highlight and a very special moment. I am beginning to understand why Botswana is so renowned for wildlife safaris and I haven’t even reached the delta yet. We return to the lodge at around 1845hrs.

1830hrs – dinner at the restaurant. The food is ok, perfectly acceptable but not amazing.

21st June:

0530hrs – wake up call.

0615hrs – depart on game drive. All the elephants have disappeared into the bush, you would not even know that they had been there…incredible how wildlife can trick you. We try and track the leopard but with no luck. Overall a very quiet morning.

0800hrs – return and have a delicious breakfast!


1000hrs – depart on site visits to Chobe Marina Lodge, Mowani Lodge and Chobe Chilwero

1230hrs – lunch on the terrace.

1400hrs – site inspection of Chobe Game Lodge.

1530hrs – go on boat trip down the Chobe River. Absolutely fantastic. A plethora of elephants along the river as they have returned from their bush excursion overnight. We even manage to watch a herd of 20 or so swimming from one island to the next and then onto the river bank – once again a real highlight although it does get fairly busy with other boats as I counted 10 others at one stage all jostling for position; this can't be helped but it is a shame and I think a very early morning boat trip would be nice as you would have the river to yourself…although there would not be as much wildlife around. Also saw plenty of crocs, fish eagles, hippos…the usual culprits and a lioness off in the distance.

1930hrs – dinner and bed

22nd June:

0530hrs – wake up call.

0620hrs – depart on morning game drive. Nothing seen this morning by us although another couple of vehicles managed to find some lions. There were a lot of hyena, lion and a few leopard tracks. A pleasant game drive though up onto the raised wooded hill just back from the riverside drives; perfect territory for leopards and this is also where the elephants and giraffes come to spend the night as it is slightly warmer and not so open.

0900hrs – breakfast.

1235 – depart 20mins by road to Kasane airport.

1335hrs – Mack Air flight across Chobe National Park and into the eastern edge of the Okavango Delta! A lovely flight; we stop off at Camp Okavango to drop two other passengers off (one who has been throwing up for the last hour behind me in the plane!). Flight from Camp Okavango takes approx 5mins. Total flight time from Chobe (Kasane) to Shinde is 1hr 15mins.

1530hrs – depart on first game drive in Okavango Delta…very exciting! Stunning wetland area with the usual suspects; we manage to find a pride of four lions of which two are mating…very quick but the first time I have ever seen this and it is a real highlight! A beautiful sundowner with the sun setting on the horizon and then a nightdrive back to Shinde Camp. On the way back we encounter 3 hyenas out on patrol scavenging for anything they can get their teeth into. All in all a fantastic introduction to the Delta.

23rd June:

0630hrs – wake up call.

0700hrs – breakfast of cereals and cooked breakfast.

0730hrs – makoro trip along the waterways. A beautiful trip that gives you a completely different perspective of the Delta. You are down at grassroots only inches off the waters surface; don’t expect to see much game but it is still a fantastic experience. Drifting along aimlessly as you listen to hippos, come across a variety of birdlife and on this trip we even see a bull elephant patrolling the waterline. A great experience and one that should not be missed out when visiting the delta.

1030hrs – return to camp and have a quick site inspection.

1120hrs – depart for the short flight (10mins) to Chief’s Camp. I have a Cessna to myself (4 seater just with the pilot); my favourite plane transfer yet as we glide over the Delta watching the wildlife lumbering away in slow motion below; elephants stick out as big grey blocks and giraffes lollop along to distant waterholes. A really fantastic experience and another highlight!

1200hrs – a 10min transfer from the airstrip brings us to Chief’s Camp – this is the flagship of the Abercrombie and Kent properties and meant to be one of the best areas in the Delta for seeing the predators…we shall soon find out!

1530hrs – afternoon tea and then depart on a game drive. The guide Pondiso is excellent as he explains numerous things that I do not think even other guides know; at one stage he is out of the vehicle and gesturing madly as he imitates a rhino marking and using its midden…very funny! The red lechwe are a highlight in the area as they bound through the water meadows sending spray in every direction; along with the Roan that I saw in Kafue these are a beautiful antelope. Towards the end of the drive we are lucky enough to come across a pride of lions with cubs and sub adults (the males are not around). A fantastic 30mins as we watch them wake up with the cubs wrestling and jumping on their mothers and aunts and the more mature ones cleaning themselves before setting out on a hunt. The pride looks healthy and comprises of approximately 7 individuals cubs included.

1800hrs – return to camp as it is not permitted to do night drives in this area.

1930hrs – dinner. Food is of a high standard and served in the covered dining area on two large tables for the guests of the camp to be seated around.

24th June:

0600hrs – wake up call.

0630hrs – breakfast of a fry up and cereals, coffee, toast, etc.

0700hrs – set off on game drive. A number of other lodges have provided ponchos and blankets to keep you warm during the cold morning hours however Chief’s Camp also provides you with a hot water bottle which is a real treat! We have a great morning spotting various antelope, black back jackal, a honeybadger (!!!) and then after approximately 45mins of tracking we come across 3 hugely powerful male lions resting in the brush. These are called the Mombo Boys. These are some of the most beautiful lions that I have ever seen with huge black manes and in the prime of their life (approx 12 years old). The guide (Posino) was actually more excited to see them than we were as he let out an excited shout and then immediately told us to keep quiet even though we had not said anything! We spend a magical 45mins with these awesome specimens with noone else on the viewing at all. This is another highlight of the trip! Apparently these boys have only just returned to the area as the week before they had been kicked out by two young males from a different pride; these three however form an extremely powerful coalition and I think they were back for revenge…

1100hrs – return to camp after a thrilling end to time spent in the Chief’s Camp area.

1200hrs – a good chicken curry and salad lunch before catching my flight on to Stanley’s Camp.

1240hrs – depart on approx 30mins flight to Stanley’s Camp. Once again I am the only one on the first part of the trip and we skim our way across the delta at 50m watching the red lechwe and elephants in the waterways below…stunning.

1330hrs – arrive at Stanley’s airstrip (shared with Baines Camp) and then transfer 25mins to Stanley’s Camp.

1530hrs – tea and cakes

1600hrs – depart on game drive. A lovely area with good game drive routes taking in a number of the islands which provide excellent territories for leopards and luckily this is what we found! We spend approximately an hour with two mating leopards! This is amazing as their guttural growls thunder from the bushes, climaxing into aggressive outbreaks. Mating every 10 or so minutes for approximately 3 days this is a very lucky and once in a lifetime encounter. We initially find their tracks and then spot them climbing down from a tree a few metres off in the distance and then we track them through the bush as they mate and then move from one area of scrub to another. At one stage we have a beautiful sighting of the female as she poses in the sun on a fallen tree as the male, who is much more timid, hides in the thick undergrowth. After a while we decide to leave the courting couple alone and depart to the open plains for our sundowner full of excitement after an amazing encounter.
After sundowner we quickly return to the leopard sighting where a hyena has now arrived on the scene and therefore the female leopard is up on a branch in plain sight; perfect photo opportunity even though it is now dark. A real treat!
The day continues to get better as we make our way to a local termite mound only to find a pack of hyenas using it as their den and wondering aimlessly around are 5-10 two week old hyena cubs. We sit in awe as they stumble around, suckling from their mother and wondering in and out of the dark expanse of their den as the termite mound towers in the background. The perfect end to the perfect day and some of the best wildlife I have seen in Africa in one day to date.
As a result of being able to do night drives in this area it does help in regards to seeing game.

2000hrs – dinner with everyone on one table.

25th June:

0600hrs – I wake up as am used to getting up earlier and make my way to the central dining area for a hot chocolate.

0630hrs – bacon and eggs for breakfast whilst watching the quelea birds swarm into the long grasses in front of the camp in their thousands.

0820hrs – depart on 20min drive to do the “Walking with Elephants” experience. Doug and Sandi Groves run livingwithelephants.org which is a non profit organisation which looks after a trio of elephants. We spend the morning with them learning about the elephants in detail, touching them, walking with them and interacting with them. It is a great experience and ideal for first time African travellers however I actually found that it went on for too long and did involve some “party tricks” which are geared towards a specific clientele. The morning does end with a great lunch in the middle of the Bush as the elephants also have lunch in the trees around you; great photo opportunities and this would be a real highlight for some clients.

1200hrs – lunch in the Bush with the elephants. Please note that this activity does combine with other clients from Baines Camp.

1330hrs – return to camp. I sit down with Delmaine (local Botswanan that is filling in at the camp at the moment) and discuss the best areas to visit in Botswana for the cats...

1530hrs – tea.

1600hrs – depart on game drive. Another exciting afternoon as we manage to track down the two leopards that are mating again. They are much more cagey today however it is still a real thrill to listen to it and catch sight of them as they walk from bush to bush.

1900hrs – return to camp.

2000hrs – a lovely candlelit and storm lantern lit dinner out at the front of camp with a massive barbecue. A really atmospheric night as everyone is in high spirits and it is a great way to spend your last night as you dine out under the stars.

26th June:

0630hrs – wake up call.

0700hrs – drive approx 40mins from Stanley’s Camp to Baines Camp


1100hrs – lunch.

1140hrs – transfer 30mins to airstrip.

1220hrs – flight from Stanley’s airstrip to Xakanaka airstrip. Great views as we skim across the Delta watching the elephants lumbering away below us through the wetland waterways. Met upon arrival at the airstrip which is much busier than other airstrips so you must remember that this is a major access point for the Delta. 10min transfer to Xakanaka Camp.

1230hrs – check in and start work!

1500hrs – tea on the decking overlooking the delta.

1545hrs – depart on game drive into the park. Astoundingly the first thing we find, alerted by the alarm calls of the impala is a male leopard wandering through the shade of the trees along a riverbank…we are lucky enough to have him to ourselves for a few minutes before swarms of cars (approx 15) descend on him and try to follow him along the roadways; this completely destroys the sighting for me and is quite a let down. This is a huge difference between the reserve and the private concessions and should be explained to all visiting this area; the afternoon progresses however as we see a pride of lions leaving a recent kill and making their way towards the river for a drink. The highlight however is discovering a female leopard sitting out in the open in the shade (with only one other vehicle) and then following her across the grassy meadow, over a stream and watch in amazement as she surprises a francolin with chicks and pounces on one of the chicks as an evening apertiser; what a treat, she is glowing in the evening sunlight as she stalks away into the bushes in readiness for her main course.

1930hrs – dinner around a lovely long wooden table made of old railway sleepers.

2100hrs – sit round the campfire with Bob telling old bush stories; a really nice experience and one that clients should make the most of as they could learn a lot.

27th June:

0615hrs – wake up call.

0630hrs – a light breakfast of toast and cereals and a large mug of tea.

0700hrs – depart on game drive. Luckily we come across the male leopard again! This time he is snoozing up a tree waiting for some unsuspecting impala or francolin to come by. We sit with him for an hour or so as he patrols his branch looking out into the bushes…nothing arrives and we leave him in peace. We then move onto the lions again who are wandering along in the trail of the buffaloes that they successfully hunted the morning before….

1030hrs – return to camp.

1100hrs – a large brunch of fish, shepherd’s pie, bacon, eggs and juice.

1200hrs – boat trip (5 mins either side of Xakanaka Camp) to visit Camps Moremi and Okuti

1500hrs – tea.

1545hrs – depart on game drive. We see the male leopard again and watch him for a couple of hours as he attempts to make a kill from his branch; he watches intently as a group of impala approach but loses his chance when they catch a whiff of him on the wind. Amazing to watch nature in action and to notice that impala are not as stupid as one might expect!

1930hrs – dinner

28th June:

0700hrs – depart on game drive. It is the last morning and we have seen loads so none of us are expecting anything…until….we get a call on the radio and three leopards have been sighted on one kill! This is exceedingly rare and we race to see it. We get there as one large male leopard is guarding the impala kill as two other leopards, another male and also a female, circle him; it is tense as each individual tries to catch him off guard and take advantage of the situation; every time they approach however he spots them and as soon as he stands to fight they back off immediately. The hisses, snarls and guttural growls continue as each individual sits amongst the grass awaiting his or her turn.
From what we can work out, it is actually the female (who is prob the mother of the one of the males) who made the kill and then had it stolen by the larger male, hence the extreme amounts of tension throughout all of the three cats. As the female feigns indifference and wanders off, she circles back and comes between the second male and the sight of the kill; suddenly it all sparks off as he moves in to try and put her back in place, she snarls and hunkers down to assert her authority, it does not work however as he powers in and a high pitched whirling battle pursues for the briefest of moments…then all is calm again with the female duly put in place and demoted back to third in line….

1100hrs – an adrenalin pumped breakfast.

1245hrs – depart for airstrip.

1315hrs – direct flight to Maun (25mins). A nice small airport that is easy to navigate. Luggage is brought in and you find the check in desk for your onward flight on your left.

1500hrs – 1hr 20min flight to Jo’Burg with Air Botswana – you do need to be careful with this airline as they are often the ones that screw up the schedule and yet they are one of the only airline that connects SA with Botswana


1630hrs – arrive in Jo’Burg and have to wait for two hours at the transfer desk as they are having problems with their systems; very frustrating and hopefully this does not always happen. You then walk straight up to the departure lounge as your luggage has already been checked in from Maun. You do need to collect your boarding pass from the transfer desk though before going to the departure lounge.

2015hrs – depart with BA direct back to London Heathrow terminal 5.

Chobe National Park

Within minutes of entering the park you see herds of 40-50 elephants. The game density here at the correct time of year (June – October/November) is obviously very high and puts a number of other safari destinations to shame. Located on the Chobe River (the other side is the Caprivi Strip in Namibia which also has great game densities), this provides the ideal location for game viewing and is famous for its huge herds of elephants. The cats in this area are not so common although Simwanza Valley and Kaswabenga Valley (30km drive so a long way) are meant to be good for lion and leopard sightings and game is good here in October as game rests in the shade of the rocky hillsides and valleys. Saying this, I had a beautiful leopard sighting for 20mins on my first night! Lion are also present in the area and I manage to see one from the boat cruise as it wanders around the bushes on the river bank.

This is a fantastic destination with great open plains where you will find grazing herds of giraffe amongst 40+ herds of elephant, thickets and acacia trees that provide cover for leopards, lions and hyenas; cheetahs are not common here as a result of the presence of the larger predators. Riverfront trees and tracks are also ideal for leopard and this is where I manage to see one on my first game drive in the evening.

N.B. The main cat areas of the park are Savuti, Kwando and Linyanti which are over in the western sector; unfortunately it was not possible to visit these areas on this visit however these are a must for the future.

Okavango Delta

Shinde Concession: this is a private concession for Ker and Downey and this makes a huge difference. This influences what activities you can do and gives you the freedom to do nightdrives, boat trips, walking safaris, drive off the road (which you cannot do in the national park), makoro trips (dug out canoes along the waterways) and also game drives. This truly is a wetland area and as the season progresses (June – October) the Delta fills up with more and more water that is flowing down from the wet season in Angola six months ago. This sets things for phenomenal game viewing as the game sticks predominantly to the islands; the strange thing is that the predators swim here which they do not do in other wildlife destinations.

Different reports say different things as to what game is good in what areas of the delta so we have to be careful who we believe.

Moremi Reserve: Chief’s Island - a major part of this is Chief’s Island which only has two camps on it, Mombo’s (Wilderness Safaris) and Chief’s (A and K). This is meant to have the highest density of predators in the Delta. A stunning place to fly into as you cross the various waterways below that have been tramped through by herds of elephants and hippos. Based in the centre of the Delta this does give you easy access to surrounding camps in other areas. Very expensive however nowhere in Botswana is cheap. Once again this is a real privilege to visit this area.

On my visit which admittedly was only 1 night I would not say that I was overawed by the predators that we saw although saying that we did see lions on both occasions that we went out – one lovely pride with cubs playing and then the 3 Mambo Boys, very healthy adult males with striking black manes. It is a great area however it claims to guarantee sightings of predators and this is a dangerous thing to do. I think ideally people should spend a minimum of two nights here in order to maximise viewing potential. On my visit I see a variety of birdlife, red lechwe leaping through the marshes, jackals, two fantastic lion encounters, a honeybadger and also the regular antelope, zebra, wildebeest, etc. There are also two resident brother cheetahs here who are often seen as it drys out a bit more; bear in mind however that if there is a large presence of lions then cheetahs are unlikely to be in the near vicinity. From what I have seen and heard this is definitely a good area for lions.
Xakanaka Area – this is one of the busiest areas of the delta as it can be accessed by all the self drive people and there are various campsites for them and also for mobile camping safari operations. This was emphasised when on my first visit into the park we find a leopard and within minutes there are 15-20 other vehicles following him along the roadways – this was a horrible start to the experience however it did get better as the afternoon progressed. One cannot argue that this is one of the best areas in Botswana for gameviewing; I have seen 2 separate leopard on one game drive and then the male again this morning as he lounges in a tree. A healthy resident pride of lions also provides good viewing and the morning before I arrived they killed a small buffalo in front of everyone providing some pretty amazing entertainment. It is a fairly tree based area and therefore you have strong leopard sightings fairly regularly. Cheetah and wild dogs are around however not till later in the season and even then they are not that obvious as they do not often share territories with the larger cats such as the lions and leopards.
The second leopard viewing was much better than the first as there were only two vehicles and we were able to follow her for a good 20mins as she wandered across the grassland, leapt a river and then pounced on a baby francolin for an appetizer; after watching for a good while we left her to stalk off into the bushes for her main course. A fantastic viewing in perfect light with hardly any other vehicles around. When it is like this it is a spectacular area; it is never going to be easy though when you have so many self-drive vehicles being able to access this area of the Delta.
Excellent game viewing with the last morning providing 3 leopards on an impala kill! Real adrenalin stuff with fights for position and dominance and the highly unlikely spectacle of seeing three leopards on a kill…hyena are also spotted the night before along with herds of elephants, wildebeest and the usual bunch of culprits.

Stanley’s and Baines community area: this area is controlled by the local communities and therefore activities etc in the area change fairly regularly. Only two sister camps are based here, Stanley’s and Baines. This does give you come privacy on game drives and viewings, etc. Apparently this does have better leopard sightings than Chief’s as it is better suited topography however they are still elusive! Cheetah are also visitors to this area however more in the drier season once the waters have receded. As with the entire delta it appears that the best game viewing is October and November time however clients must be prepared to endure high temperatures.
Having visited for two nights and seen a pair of leopards mating on both days it is pretty impressive! On reading the game sightings book it does look as though leopard are regularly seen and in particular there is one female leopard that is very habituated to the vehicles and often walks under the vehicles; during my stay on two separate occasions she was only a metre away from the vehicle. Lions in this area however are more rare (which is probably why leopard are more seen) and even though you here them most nights, they are actually in the Moremi Reserve which is approx 0.5km away and it is not possible to access it from Stanley’s or Baines.
During my stay I also had the pleasure of visiting a hyena den that was nearby to camp and where a number of young cubs were being holed up; a real thrill as you watch the hyena clan interact, woop and generally make mischief!


Accommodation in Chobe National Park

Desert and Delta: Chobe Game Lodge – a large lodge in Chobe with 46 rooms! Lovely location directly on the southern banks of the Chobe River and only 20mins transfer from Kasane airport. The lodge provides good access to the park however it is rather large. Staff are friendly however even from one meal service does not seem to be that quick. There is a nice pool with views over the river. A variety of activities are possible from here including game drives, boat trips on the river, walks along the river bank, wildlife videos in the conference room, stargazing equipment on the roof and a beauty salon and a gym! Rooms are fairly standard with ensuite facilities (shower and bath), balconies overlooking the river; rooms have barrel vaulted ceilings. Maggie runs the game drives and client activities from a desk in front of reception and she is a star! There is also a game viewing platform on the riverfront from where you can see elephants grazing on the banks over to your right.
The more I stay here the more I like it. Friendly staff always there to help you and try their best to give you the utmost service. Even though it has 46 rooms it is the ONLY lodge located inside the park and therefore this is a real selling point. The boat trip is brilliant with lots of game to see – I would probably recommend the evening boat trip as this is when the herds of elephants come down to the river and often cross over to the other side. This is in fact the second smallest lodge in Chobe after Chobe Chilwero and therefore is a very good option for clients. From what I have seen this is the second best available.

Chobe Marine Lodge – a large lodge set in the middle of town. Fairly standard rooms but not particularly much character. Views of the river as you would expect. Swimming pool and two restaurants, one for breakfast and one for dinner. This is geared quite heavily towards conferences as well which is not ideal for clients on holiday. Also located outside the park and therefore approx a 15min transfer to the gates which does not give you much flexibility if you see game just before gates shut. Approx 60 rooms.

Mowana Lodge – once again located in town. Probably the better of the two when compared to Marina Lodge. Clinton stayed here in 1998 and it seems to hold some fairly high powered summits. A nice location on the river bank again. Rooms have private terraces and various wood furnishings. A lovely big Morami tree is the centre piece of the main courtyard. The main bar is raised on the second floor therefore giving nice sunset views over the river. The usual curio shop and activity centre. I quite liked this lodge and it would probably be my number 3 for the area. Swimming pool as you would expect and the usual restaurants, etc.

Sanctuary Lodges: Chobe Chilwero Lodge – a lovely lodge located approx 10mins from the park entrance. Beautiful views stretch out over the Chobe River and as you are set slightly back up on a hillside this gives you quite a nice feeling of being able to look out over the whole area. Beautiful spa that even I was tempted by…secluded pool and approx 10 lovely rooms with river view. The rooms have lovely big beds which look through to the bathroom which have raised Victorian bathtubs. The dining area is a raised terraced area at the front of the house which affords views out to the river approximately 0.5 miles below. This is definitely the best lodge in the area. Sprawling lawns are home to reclining tables and chairs set under the shade of “trees” (don’t know what type!).

Accommodation in Okavango Delta

Ker and Downey: Shinde Camp – set in it sown private concession this is a lovely camp. As it is a private concession it does mean that you can do activities such as nightdrives, walking safaris and mokoro trips which you cannot do in the actual national park. Sleeping approximately 20pax it is slightly big but it has a homely feel to it with a lovely raised decking area for the campfire and relaxing area and then an even higher raised dining area. The dining area has high backed chairs that make you feel as though you are dining around the long table of a castle! A small curio shop provides some fleeces, hats and books for sale. Raised/stilted tented rooms with wooden beds, ensuite bathrooms (shower), sherry to warm you up at night and hot water bottles during the cold season. You are in the middle of nowhere and therefore you do need to be walked to and from your room at night. Activities aside from those mentioned above also include fishing, game drives, boat trips (more for orientation than game viewing). A pleasant feel to the camp with cosy rooms and various areas to sit back and relax and look out over views of the Delta. Camp Okuti (based down in Xakanaka area) – a nice camp located a few mins upstream from Camp Xakanaka. 10 chalets/tents that look out over the delta. These chalets are connected by raised wooden walkways that creak badly as you walk along them. The interiors are much better with large rooms, comfy chairs, private decking and an indoor and outdoor showers. It does not have as much character as Camp Xakanaka although may be slightly more upmarket. A small swimming pool does also provide an area to cool off in.

Sanctuary Lodges: Chief’s Camp (Chief’s Island private concession in Moremi Reserve) – a beautiful camp with 12 permanent tents set on raised stilted platforms above the delta. My room looks out over the waterways and reeds as kingfishers dip into the marshes below. Rooms consist of ensuite bathrooms with western loo, double basins and indoor and outdoor showers. A comfortable private terrace affords views into the wilderness as vervet monkeys and tree squirrels play in the branches above. A fridge and comfy seating area provide the luxury that you would expect and along with a fan and also electric blankets it is fairly impressive. The communal area is through from a substantial curio shop and consists of an open air and also roofed dining area and terrace that overlook the waterways where you can do 1hr long mokoro trips. As this is in the Moremi Reserve and not a private concession this does limit your activities to game drives and short makoro trips. Night drives and walking safaris are not possible. Rooms also now have wireless internet connection although this is quite slow it does work!

Xakanaka Moremi Reserve: Xakanaka Camp – this is the principal accessible point of the Delta for self drives, fly ins etc and has the main airstrip which is fairly busy. Xakanaka Camp consists of 13 tents located along the delta waterway. This is a classic old camp that is run by Bob and Flo Flaxman who have been here for years and have a number of yarns to tell you as you sit round the campfire. The tents are comfy but mid range in standard with nice double beds, wooden floors, private terraces, open air bathrooms with wicker walls, gas shower and western loo. The communal area has a large covered dining room resting on the delta banks, comfy sofas, a large boma jutting out over the delta and a self service bar. Activities include game drives, a short 2 min makoro trip and boat trips along the delta (motorboat). A small swimming pool to cool off in. Letti is the lovely lady at front desk who will help you with all of your needs. Popcorn is the resident juvenile crocodile that they have bathing in the sun on the banks of the lagoon! Camp Moremi - Not one of my favourites. It is located a few minutes down stream from Xakanaka and has 11 tents. This seems to be more for groups with a large dining area and modern bar set up in an almost tree house like style; beneath this is a curio shop and then there is also a look out point looking over the delta. Meru style tents are raised up off the ground and are clean and comfy with separate modern looking bathrooms that personally I do not feel fit with the keeping of an African safari. A large covered area on sweeping lawns down to the river provides a dining area. A small swimming pool to cool off in.

Stanley’s Camp (Stanley’s and Baines private concession) – much more rustic than Chief’s with more of a bushcamp feel to it. It still has all the basic necessities that one requires however it does not have the frills of the top camps and lodges. A circus style tent main area with a huge jacaranda tree growing through the middle of it affording views out to the delta. This main area is slightly raised on wooden decking and has a small library, curio shop and the dining area. If you walk through this main area and along the raised wooden decking you come to the swimming pool; it is not big however it has a few loungers and looks straight out onto the delta. The 8 tents are also based on raised wooden decking and are Meru style. Simple beds with cabinet and writing desk before going through to the ensuite bathroom which has a shower and western loo. Perfectly comfortable however this should be sold as more of a bush experience rather than luxury. Stanley’s is also one of the only camps from where you can walk with the elephants along with Chief’s and Baines. A great feeling of wilderness in the evening as you listen to the lions roaring and watch the hyenas sniffing round your tent! Baines Camp – approximately 1hr drive from the airstrip this is slightly more upmarket than Stanley’s which is also reflected in the price. Stilted walkways with rope links join the camp together. The walls are insulated with 150,000 cans (coke cans, etc) although these are hidden behind the plaster work. The stilted communal area looks out over the river and has a lovely boma (fireplace) on this area. This circular communal area surrounds a termite mound which is often home to chameleons and monitor lizards and is the centre piece for the outdoor dining at night, the indoor dining in the morning, the lounge area with comfy sofas and the boma – all overlook the river. The 5 rooms are all named after famous painters (hence Thomas Baine) and each have a picture of his (replica) on the wall. Double beds look out of large glass sliding doors onto the private terrace and the Delta; these doors can be slid back and the bed rolled back so that you can sleep out under the stars! This is quite a popular camp for honeymooners! Private dinners for honeymooners are also possible on their private verandah or alternatively by the pool where they light the entire area with candles. Activities include game drives, night drives, walking with the elephants and also boat trips (not possible at Stanley’s); this is often popular for sunset drinks.

For further detailed information on Botswana safaris please see the links below:

Botswana Safari - an oevrview of safaris in Botswana and what one can expect
Botswana Wildlife Safaris - detailed information on what wildlife you can expect to see during your safari in Botswana
Botswana Lodge Accommodation - a breakdown of individual lodges in Botswana and what they offer
Botswana Safari Holidays - further information on the Main Attractions that Botswana has to offer
Botswana Safari - a variety of tailor made and small group safaris to Botswana

Zambia Wildlife Safari Recce - June 2008

Zambia Safari

What a trip!

After weeks of waiting I had finally landed in Lusaka having boarded a direct flight from Heathrow with British Airways. Met upon arrival and whisked through passport control by our friendly ground agent I was on my short connecting flight to South Luangwa Valley and Mfuwe. Met upon arrival i transfer by 4x4 the short drive to the main camp of Robin Pope Safaris, Nkwali. Set upon the banks of the Luangwa River amidst the shade of the trees, this is a great camp form where to start your safaris. My first two days are spent acclimatising and making my first exploratory forays into the renowned South Luangwa Valley National Park...and what a treat!


Nkwali Lodge with its open air showers and views of Luangwa River with hippos wallowing and crocs sunbathing is the perfect place to access South Luangwa Valley National Park as you have three choices: via the main gate, via boat, or by the much more fun, pontoon!

With two nights at Nkwali, I am not disappointed, even at a supposedly quieter time of the year for game viewing... within these first two days I have already seen lion (at close quarters!), elephants, hyenas, a variety of birdlife, hippos, crocs and had the pleasure of spending a full 20 minutes with a female leopard as she wanders through the night...


Moving on to our next stop we drive through South Luangwa National Park to the Nsefu Sector; the Nsefu Sector can be described as a "natural island" and is pretty much a private concession to the three camps that are located there, Nsefu Camp, Tena Tena and Tafika. My next two nights are spent at Nsefu Camp; once again located on the river this is the oldest camp in the park, and with its nearby waterhole and elephant crossing point it provides some excellent game viewing. Small rondavels with ensuite facilities and private terraces and open air dining make this a great place to stay as you feel the adventure of where you are but not at the expense of western comforts. A variety of activities are on offer from Nsefu Camp including night safaris (maximising leopard sightings), day excurions to the plains and hot springs, 4x4 game drives and some spectacular walking safaris from Nsefu through to its sister camp Tena Tena...Once again, great wildlife viewings and more leopards and lions...

Kakuli Camp was my next stop, still in South Luangwa National Park, but back across the river. A great spot just below the confluence of the Luwi and Luangwa Rivers and once again, cracking views! A cosy camp that has just been renovated, Kakuli has 5 spacious tents with open air baathrooms and views of the river where you can see the usual culprits at play! A honeymoon suite also provides a bit more privacy and great views over the river. A rustic but well decorated communal area also has views over the river and a mud wallow which during my stay was home to a rather stubborn hippo! Once again some great activities are on offer from Kakuli Camp including game drives by 4x4, night drives and walking safaris. Kakuli is the base camp for some beautiful satellite camps that include Luwi Bushcamp, Nsolo Bushcamp and Mchenja Bushcamp - these are fantastic camps varying in degrees of luxury with the highlight of your safari being walking between one or all of these camps to really get a taste for the wildlife of Africa and the South Luangwa Valley National Park.

Sadly, Kakuli Camp was my last stop in the South Luangwa Valley and I move on to the next stage of my recce, Kafue National Park. Other great camps and lodges to stay at in the South Luangwa Valley include Kapani Lodge, Luangwa Safari House and Robin's House.

The largest National Park in Zambia, Kafue is making its way back from some heavy years of poaching, Nowadays however this is in the past and game sightings are regular and of a good quality. It is important to pick the right time of year however some of the highlights include elephants, cheetahs (one of the best place to see cheetahs in Zambia) and the renowned Busanga pride of lions...

My first two days are spent at the Busanga Bushcamp located in the wetland area of the Busanga Plains and as we were to find out, the centre of the Busanga prides home territory...

Busanga Bushcamp is in itself fairly basic compared to other Wilderness Safaris properties however it still provides the comforts that every western traveller requires including ensuite bathrooms with western facilitie, large double beds with duvets and private terraces with hammocks overlooking the plains! Other lovely luxury lodges and camps that are great to stay at in the Busanga Plains area of Kafue National Park include, Kapinga Bushcamp and Shumba Bushcamp.

At first, I must confess, I am slightly disappointed with our initial game drive and the lack of wildlife in the area. One must remember however that this is an area where the wildlife does move away in specific seasons and we are only just at the beginning of the season when the wildlife starts returning. The next morning however, we are rewarded! The Busanga lion pride is spotted on the other side of the river channel and slowly, as we watch, the pride wakes and wanders through the river channel glistening as they emerge from the flowing river...We are then in for a treat, as for the next two days we have the pleasure of following the pride day and night, watching them wander the plains in search of food, meandering through our camp (!!!), sleeping, grooming and enjoying the fun of being a pride...Upon leaving, I have to say, it is one of the best wildlife experiences that I have had the pleasure of enjoying as it is rare that one gest to spend so much time with one animal or pride of lions at such close quarters...a real learning experience.

Next stop is Lufupa Tented Camp - more central to Kafue National Park and in much more of forested and scrub vegetation. Mid-range tented accommdoation along the river bank provides somewhere to sit back and relax at teh end of your day. Once again a great selection of activities on offer including boat trips, sunset cruises and night drives (some sightings whilst I was there included civets, lions, leopard). The Busanga Plains can also be accessed from this are if one is keen to spot cheetahs however you should bear in mind that it is a long drive up and back in one day.

My final stop in Zambia is the renowned and unavoidable Victoria Falls. Flying into Livingstone, I am all of a sudden quite wary of mving back into civilisation as I have been in the Bush for the last week or so; my fears however are soon brushed aside as i arrive at the wonderful Stanley Safari Lodge. Styled as an old English Country House with an infinity pool looking out to the spray of the Victoria Falls, lavishly decorated dining areas and rooms with huge bath tubs and open to the air, this is a great place to stop for a day or two. Another great lodge to stay at where you won't be disappointed is the renowned Tongabezi.

Victoria Falls and Livingstone as a town offer a multitude of different things to do including helicopter flights over the Falls (I had to do this and it was great!), white water rafting, walks to the Victoria Falls themselves, visits to the local park, walks with lions and romantic dinners in various locations including the renoqned Livingstone Island located at the top of Victoria Falls...

One of the pleasures of Zambia travel is that to date it is still not a busy destination. Compared to a Tanzania safari or a Kenya safari, etc this is a peaceful destination with some great wildlife viewing, more varied activities than other destinations and hardly anyone there! A number of my game viewings during the course of this recce were enjoyed alone or at the very most with one other vehicle at the sighting...

For further information on Zambia Safaris please click on the various links listed below:

Zambia Safari Holiday - an overview of Zambia as a safari destination
Zambia Holiday - further information on the wildlife that you can expect to see on your Zambia safari
Zambia Lodges and Camps - individual information on lodges in Zambia
Safari Holidays to Zambia - the main cultural and wildlife attractions that one can expect to see on your Zambia holiday
Zambia Safari - examples of safaris that we can tailor to your specific requirements in Zambia